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What do I need to change my factory 5lb. trigger to a 3.5lb. ?

5126 Views 26 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  chachimacho
What do I need to change my factory 5lb. trigger to a 3.5lb. with shorter trigger travel?

By the way it's for a G17
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Why would you want to? Just curious..
I reccomed a Gohst Ultimate 3.5 lb connector with the spring kit.
Just did that to my 36. Definite difference. Maybe not as much as u would think,but enough to justify the 25-30 bucks. (And the good feeling of working on your own gun!)
3.5 lbs is easy. Just change the connector. Shorter travel depends on the use. A carry gun, never. A comp gun sure as shorter travel requires a nonstock trigger bar.
In a similar vein I'd like someone to briefly explain the Glock Trigger. I put a LWD 3.5# connector in a G22 that I had a few years back and the break seemed to be less but the actual pull was still about the same. I've ordered a LWD 3.5# connector with the NY1 spring for my G30, now what's that going to do. Currently I think the "pull" is ok but I'd like the "break" to be a bit less. Should I install both parts in the kit or just the 3.5# connector or what? Thanks, not trying to hi-jack the thread, just figured there's a few of us that needs some info on this and figure here was as good as anyplace to ask.
I installed the Ghost Ultimate 3.5 connector with the 3 spring kit in my G26 Gen 4. The spring kit included a 6 lb. trigger spring, reduced power plunger and a 4 lb. striker spring. My trigger was super smooth and light! In fact, too light! Not ideal for CCW and I was experiencing the occasional light primer strike. So, I re-installed the factory 5.5 striker spring. Still a nice trigger! Smooth and crisp, but not as light. I haven't had the trigger pull tested, but definetly better than factory!
Be aware that if you modify the travel,if not done right, it will interfere with the operations of the safeties.
You should rally check out the "edge" or "vogel challenger" by glocktriggers.com....I'm a very happy customer of that product....huge huge difference!
I have the 3.5lb on my G17 Gen3, I LOVE it, best upgrade Ive done, hell of a difference
glocker73 said:
I installed the Ghost Ultimate 3.5 connector with the 3 spring kit in my G26 Gen 4. The spring kit included a 6 lb. trigger spring, reduced power plunger and a 4 lb. striker spring. My trigger was super smooth and light! In fact, too light! Not ideal for CCW and I was experiencing the occasional light primer strike. So, I re-installed the factory 5.5 striker spring. Still a nice trigger! Smooth and crisp, but not as light. I haven't had the trigger pull tested, but definetly better than factory!
Awesome setup just like mine but mine is a Gen3. All you need is the 3.5 connector Lone Wolf or Ghost inc are the best ones and a Punch to install it.
@Hurricane I have a tendency to anticipate the shot due to the stock trigger travel also lightening the trigger pull would reduce that as well plus reduced trigger travel means faster follow up shots in a pinch I figure it would be an advantage.
Just send it to me. I'll get you 3.5lbs or 2.5lbs. It's up to you. It's all about choosing the right connector. Setting the connector to the proper angle. Replacing the correct springs with the proper springs.
Argyle_Armoring said:
Just send it to me. I'll get you 3.5lbs or 2.5lbs. It's up to you. It's all about choosing the right connector. Setting the connector to the proper angle. Replacing the correct springs with the proper springs.
Definitely replace the springs, changing just the connector works but, changing the springs along with the connector makes a heck of alot of difference as stated above.
Just got the TRUGLO TFO Night sites and I have to admit I love em!

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glocker73 said:
I installed the Ghost Ultimate 3.5 connector with the 3 spring kit in my G26 Gen 4. The spring kit included a 6 lb. trigger spring, reduced power plunger and a 4 lb. striker spring. My trigger was super smooth and light! In fact, too light! Not ideal for CCW and I was experiencing the occasional light primer strike. So, I re-installed the factory 5.5 striker spring. Still a nice trigger! Smooth and crisp, but not as light. I haven't had the trigger pull tested, but definetly better than factory!
This is how I set my 23 up... I got the ghost 3.5 connector and the 3 spring kit.. The striker spring that came with the kit was all bent so I didn't put it in. I was skeptical to do it any way for fear of light strikes. But it's a really nice trigger that way.. In fact I forgot just how nice it was until I brought my new g27 to the range with the factory trigger in it. I ran a mag through my 23 and got a pretty nice center group. Grabbed the 27 set up a fresh target, pulled the trigger and squinted thinking "where's the hole"!? I missed the target completely. You have to really squeeze the trigger nice and slow on the factory trigger there is a little margin for error with the trigger kit. Definatly increases accuracy!
I got my connector and spring kit on fleabay... I think it ran me $20 all together
I have a Lone Wolf 3.5 connector from Amazon ($8.99) and the 3 Competition Springs from the Glockstore ($9.99). Works well for me. EDC & Duty.
TNFrank said:
In a similar vein I'd like someone to briefly explain the Glock Trigger. I put a LWD 3.5# connector in a G22 that I had a few years back and the break seemed to be less but the actual pull was still about the same. I've ordered a LWD 3.5# connector with the NY1 spring for my G30, now what's that going to do. Currently I think the "pull" is ok but I'd like the "break" to be a bit less. Should I install both parts in the kit or just the 3.5# connector or what? Thanks, not trying to hi-jack the thread, just figured there's a few of us that needs some info on this and figure here was as good as anyplace to ask.
I installed that kit in my Glock 23 Gen4 and for some reason the trigger would not engage and felt sorta funny. I also installed a titanium firing pin safety. I'm not sure what actually caused the trigger problem but I removed the NY trigger spring and the titanium firing safety and it appears to be working now when I dry fire but haven't been able to live fire yet. With that combination the gun would not fire. I don't believe it was an installation problem as it is rather simple to install those parts. Anyone with any solution to that problem would be appreciated.

Joe
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