Thinking of switching to Ballistol.

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by macwhite4265, Mar 11, 2012.

  1. macwhite4265

    macwhite4265 New Member

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    I've been using Hoppe's no.9 and Rem Oil on my G23 and a friend told me to try Ballistol. He said it's a cleaner and lubricant. Anyone have any experience on this product? :confused:
     
  2. G-23

    G-23 Premium Member

    It's been my experience, Cleaners clean and Lubricants lube. I won't get rid of the Hoppes yet.
    There are wet and dry lubricants and many nowadays perfer the dry stuff.
     

  3. Glocked

    Glocked New Member

    Remoil is a cleaner, lubricant and protectant. I use it as a cleaner and then hoppes as a lubricant. Remoil seems to dry out in a day or 2 and doesn't maintain a consistent lube coating. I don't like to use any harsh chemicals such as strippers on any firearm. I also use canned air to blow out loose debris before I even start cleaning.
     
  4. kodiak

    kodiak Active Member

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    I'm using Ballistol now. It's good stuff
     
  5. trapshootr

    trapshootr New Member

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    Have been using a CLP (FP10) since it was deemed the " preferred" product for cleaning the issued weapon. Before that I used Breakfree on everything (also a CLP). I guess what I'm saying is, I have never used one product to clean, and one to lubricate and protect....do I need to rethink my post-range protocol?
     
  6. Glocked

    Glocked New Member

    As long as your happy with the lasting lubrication of your CLP then I would say all is good. Hoppes is really think and it lasts for a long time. Even after firing extensively my weapons still have lubricant visible where it counts.
     
  7. Been using Ballistol and only Ballistol for a couple of years. Absolutely love it.

    Unlike what others have stated here it does do both jobs well. Now I don't soak the slide or nothing in it because all I do for the slide is a toothbrush and some alcohol. I will use a q-tip with Ballistol for the rails to clean them. Sometimes soak extractor in it but come back with alcohol to remove any oil. I do how ever completely soak the barrel in Ballistol while tooth brushing/wiping the rest of the guns. Then when finished just the one drop in the normal places for final lube. If using spray you can just lightly spray some and utilize the one drop on the end of the straw as the final lube. I recently both both the spray and liquid forms along with a micro tip applicator for the one drop applications.
     
  8. unit44justin

    unit44justin New Member

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    I just switched to frog lube which is supposed to be an excellent all natural lube. It is supposed to be able to let the operator just wipe away the carbon. I am headed out the range here is a few minutes and test it out. Look it up I have yet to find a person say something negative about it, the best things while using it for the first application is it has a wonderful minty smell to it and you don't have to worry about it getting on your skin because it is made from I think like 20 different plants. I give a range report later.
     
  9. kodiak

    kodiak Active Member

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    Exactly what I do. My reasoning for doing this is not based out of necessity, but more so preventative (ie doesn't hurt and takes two seconds). I've seen a ton of posts where people have corrected their ejection problems by carefully stoning the top and bottom of their extractors enabling it to move more freely. The Ballistol keeps my unmodified extractor slick and dry. I've put over 1000 rounds through the new Gen 4 19 since last week using all WWB and Federal Champ, and every single one ejected properly, and the weapon shot like a dream (maybe I'm lucky and got a good one?). Toothbrush is great for getting all the carbon off the slide. I've also applied some to the connector (when I replaced it) and birds head on the trigger bar and dried it off as well.

    I have also found that a small nylon paint brush works better in the frame as compared to a toothbrush. I can get deeper in there and cover more real estate after cleaning the carbon off the trigger bar/behind the trigger in mag well with alcohol. Sometimes I don't even need to use alcohol because the paint brush gets it all out of there.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2012
  10. macwhite4265

    macwhite4265 New Member

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    Thank you all for your input.:)
     
  11. voyager4520

    voyager4520 New Member

    Ballistol is a good lubricant and it's good for corrosion protection, but it's not very good for cleaning the bore of the barrel. I use Hoppe's #9 for cleaning the bore of the barrel, and Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner for cleaning everything else including plastic. Any metal part I clean with either Hoppe's product, I then wipe with Ballistol oil then wipe dry to give that metal part corrosion protection. However I never use oil on the metal liners of the magazines, I do wipe the magazine springs with Ballistol then wipe them dry for corrosion protection.
     
  12. SHOOTER13

    SHOOTER13 RETIRED MODERATOR Sponsor Lifetime Supporting Member

    Ballistol story

    BALLISTOL can be used to clean, to preserve, to
    protect, to prevent corrosion, to maintain, to
    impregnate and disinfect not only objects made out of
    metal but also out of wood, hard plastics, and even
    smooth leather. WARNING: Do not use on suede.
    BALLISTOL is slightly alkaline in an emulsion of
    BALLISTOL and water, 1 part Ballistol to 20 parts
    water (1:20 ratio). While most other brands are pHneutral,
    i.e. have a pH around 7, BALLISTOL has a pH
    between 8 and 8.5. This is why BALLISTOL is capable
    of neutralizing mild acids and human hand sweat,
    which is of a slightly acidic nature.

    BALLISTOL dissolves traces of lead, copper, zinc,
    brass, and tombac, which are used to make
    projectiles and jackets for them. Residues of these
    metals will remain in the bore of any firearm as a result
    of shooting jacketed or unjacketed lead projectiles.
    The use of BALLISTOL minimizes the need for
    scraping or brushing the bore. Just pour or spray
    enough BALLISTOL into barrel and chamber, turn the
    firearm around several times to allow BALLISTOL to
    reach all parts and let it act for a while.
    Due to its alkaline character, BALLISTOL is ideal for
    cleaning and maintaining black powder firearms. The
    residues from black powder in chambers and bores
    are acidic. BALLISTOL neutralizes and dissolves
    them. This eliminates the need for aggressive
    solvents.

    Using BALLISTOL to maintain wooden gun stocks is
    particularly recommendable in climates with frequent
    rain and/or high relative humidity. Wood absorbs
    water and swells as a consequence. This may mean
    your stocks become bigger, wider and longer as they
    absorb more and more water. Before long they will no
    longer fit your gun or even crack. BALLISTOL will also
    prevent wood from drying out in hot arid climates.

    In 1985 a bottle with BALLISTOL was found in an attic
    where it had been left for over 60 years. The oil had not
    hardened and the chemical analysis revealed that it
    still had the same degree of purity as freshly produced
    BALLISTOL. The oil had become a little darker but not
    even the slightest trace of resinification could be
    discovered.

    After WW2 the Klever Company conducted a long
    term test with BALLISTOL. Several rifles and
    shotguns were treated with BALLISTOL, wrapped in
    wax impregnated paper and stored in a trunk. All this
    was done under the supervision of a sworn expert for
    firearms and explosives. After 25 years the same
    expert opened the packages and inspected the
    firearms. All weapons had remained completely rust
    free on the inside and outside. No resinification of
    BALLISTOL had occurred. After pulling a dry cotton
    wad through the barrels several rounds were fired
    from the weapons without malfunction.

    Human sweat is composed of amino acids and is,
    therefore, of a slightly acidic nature. This can be a real
    problem in fine mechanics. The effects of human hand
    sweat on polished metal surfaces is similar to the
    etching process. Unlike most other lubricants BALLISTOL emulsifies
    with water. Water will separate the leading brand from
    metal. BALLISTOL mixes with the water and
    penetrates it. When the water evaporates,
    BALLISTOL stays behind and continues to protect the
    metal-or plastic or wood.

    http://www.ballistol.com/1_Ballistol%202010%20Amazing%20Story%20Flyer%20PROOF3.pdf

     
  13. smoothshot

    smoothshot New Member

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    Seems like Ballistol is the way to go
     
  14. lschne

    lschne Member

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    What would be a good product to use on the exterior of the slide. Looking for something that gives a deeper looking color and shine.
     
  15. smoothshot

    smoothshot New Member

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    I would assume ballistol
     
  16. EARL99208

    EARL99208 New Member

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    Another Ballistol user here......love the stuff!
     
  17. Ballistol works well. Some people say they don't like the smell, but I don't notice it - especially compared to the stench of Hoppe's No. 9.
     
  18. Lucian_253

    Lucian_253 Well-Known Member Supporter

    Ballistol, break free CPL, frog lube, even hoppes. All will get the job done.
     
  19. teksid

    teksid Well-Known Member


    X2, as long as it's slick. Most Glocks will run dry.
     
  20. Easy_CZ

    Easy_CZ Well-Known Member Lifetime Supporting Member

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    I like Ballistol. Hoppes chemicals mess with my skin.