Thinking of switching to Ballistol.

It's been my experience, Cleaners clean and Lubricants lube. I won't get rid of the Hoppes yet.
There are wet and dry lubricants and many nowadays perfer the dry stuff.

 

Remoil is a cleaner, lubricant and protectant. I use it as a cleaner and then hoppes as a lubricant. Remoil seems to dry out in a day or 2 and doesn't maintain a consistent lube coating. I don't like to use any harsh chemicals such as strippers on any firearm. I also use canned air to blow out loose debris before I even start cleaning.

 

I'm using Ballistol now. It's good stuff

 

Have been using a CLP (FP10) since it was deemed the " preferred" product for cleaning the issued weapon. Before that I used Breakfree on everything (also a CLP). I guess what I'm saying is, I have never used one product to clean, and one to lubricate and protect....do I need to rethink my post-range protocol?

 

As long as your happy with the lasting lubrication of your CLP then I would say all is good. Hoppes is really think and it lasts for a long time. Even after firing extensively my weapons still have lubricant visible where it counts.

 

Been using Ballistol and only Ballistol for a couple of years. Absolutely love it.

Unlike what others have stated here it does do both jobs well. Now I don't soak the slide or nothing in it because all I do for the slide is a toothbrush and some alcohol. I will use a q-tip with Ballistol for the rails to clean them. Sometimes soak extractor in it but come back with alcohol to remove any oil. I do how ever completely soak the barrel in Ballistol while tooth brushing/wiping the rest of the guns. Then when finished just the one drop in the normal places for final lube. If using spray you can just lightly spray some and utilize the one drop on the end of the straw as the final lube. I recently both both the spray and liquid forms along with a micro tip applicator for the one drop applications.

 

I just switched to frog lube which is supposed to be an excellent all natural lube. It is supposed to be able to let the operator just wipe away the carbon. I am headed out the range here is a few minutes and test it out. Look it up I have yet to find a person say something negative about it, the best things while using it for the first application is it has a wonderful minty smell to it and you don't have to worry about it getting on your skin because it is made from I think like 20 different plants. I give a range report later.

 

Exactly what I do. My reasoning for doing this is not based out of necessity, but more so preventative (ie doesn't hurt and takes two seconds). I've seen a ton of posts where people have corrected their ejection problems by carefully stoning the top and bottom of their extractors enabling it to move more freely. The Ballistol keeps my unmodified extractor slick and dry. I've put over 1000 rounds through the new Gen 4 19 since last week using all WWB and Federal Champ, and every single one ejected properly, and the weapon shot like a dream (maybe I'm lucky and got a good one?). Toothbrush is great for getting all the carbon off the slide. I've also applied some to the connector (when I replaced it) and birds head on the trigger bar and dried it off as well.

I have also found that a small nylon paint brush works better in the frame as compared to a toothbrush. I can get deeper in there and cover more real estate after cleaning the carbon off the trigger bar/behind the trigger in mag well with alcohol. Sometimes I don't even need to use alcohol because the paint brush gets it all out of there.

 

Ballistol is a good lubricant and it's good for corrosion protection, but it's not very good for cleaning the bore of the barrel. I use Hoppe's #9 for cleaning the bore of the barrel, and Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner for cleaning everything else including plastic. Any metal part I clean with either Hoppe's product, I then wipe with Ballistol oil then wipe dry to give that metal part corrosion protection. However I never use oil on the metal liners of the magazines, I do wipe the magazine springs with Ballistol then wipe them dry for corrosion protection.

 

Ballistol story

BALLISTOL can be used to clean, to preserve, to
protect, to prevent corrosion, to maintain, to
impregnate and disinfect not only objects made out of
metal but also out of wood, hard plastics, and even
smooth leather. WARNING: Do not use on suede.
BALLISTOL is slightly alkaline in an emulsion of
BALLISTOL and water, 1 part Ballistol to 20 parts
water (1:20 ratio). While most other brands are pHneutral,
i.e. have a pH around 7, BALLISTOL has a pH
between 8 and 8.5. This is why BALLISTOL is capable
of neutralizing mild acids and human hand sweat,
which is of a slightly acidic nature.
​

BALLISTOL dissolves traces of lead, copper, zinc,
brass, and tombac, which are used to make
projectiles and jackets for them. Residues of these
metals will remain in the bore of any firearm as a result
of shooting jacketed or unjacketed lead projectiles.
The use of BALLISTOL minimizes the need for
scraping or brushing the bore. Just pour or spray
enough BALLISTOL into barrel and chamber, turn the
firearm around several times to allow BALLISTOL to
reach all parts and let it act for a while.
Due to its alkaline character, BALLISTOL is ideal for
cleaning and maintaining black powder firearms. The
residues from black powder in chambers and bores
are acidic. BALLISTOL neutralizes and dissolves
them. This eliminates the need for aggressive
solvents.

Using BALLISTOL to maintain wooden gun stocks is
particularly recommendable in climates with frequent
rain and/or high relative humidity. Wood absorbs
water and swells as a consequence. This may mean
your stocks become bigger, wider and longer as they
absorb more and more water. Before long they will no
longer fit your gun or even crack. BALLISTOL will also​

prevent wood from drying out in hot arid climates.

In 1985 a bottle with BALLISTOL was found in an attic
where it had been left for over 60 years. The oil had not
hardened and the chemical analysis revealed that it
still had the same degree of purity as freshly produced
BALLISTOL. The oil had become a little darker but not
even the slightest trace of resinification could be
discovered.

After WW2 the Klever Company conducted a long
term test with BALLISTOL. Several rifles and
shotguns were treated with BALLISTOL, wrapped in
wax impregnated paper and stored in a trunk. All this
was done under the supervision of a sworn expert for
firearms and explosives. After 25 years the same
expert opened the packages and inspected the
firearms. All weapons had remained completely rust
free on the inside and outside. No resinification of
BALLISTOL had occurred. After pulling a dry cotton
wad through the barrels several rounds were fired​

from the weapons without malfunction.

Human sweat is composed of amino acids and is,
therefore, of a slightly acidic nature. This can be a real
problem in fine mechanics. The effects of human hand
sweat on polished metal surfaces is similar to the
etching process. Unlike most other lubricants BALLISTOL emulsifies
with water. Water will separate the leading brand from
metal. BALLISTOL mixes with the water and
penetrates it. When the water evaporates,
BALLISTOL stays behind and continues to protect the​

metal-or plastic or wood.

http://www.ballistol.com/1_Ballistol%202010%20Amazing%20Story%20Flyer%20PROOF3.pdf

 

Seems like Ballistol is the way to go

 

What would be a good product to use on the exterior of the slide. Looking for something that gives a deeper looking color and shine.

 

I would assume ballistol

 

Another Ballistol user here......love the stuff!

 

Ballistol works well. Some people say they don't like the smell, but I don't notice it - especially compared to the stench of Hoppe's No. 9.

 

Ballistol, break free CPL, frog lube, even hoppes. All will get the job done.

 

X2, as long as it's slick. Most Glocks will run dry.

 

I like Ballistol. Hoppes chemicals mess with my skin.