I see Tulammo at my local Walmart and Wolf ammo on line at several different websites and have a question about it, which is: Should I be concerned with lacquer build up on the feed ramp/magazine follower? I am new to guns and know this is a stupid questions, but can someone give me their two cents on steel casee ammo that is both lacquer/polymer coated?
Steel Case Ammo
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i don't believe that the tula brand employs the use of lacquer in their ammo anymore and have moved to polymer-coating. it should be clearly labled on the box as to which is used. if you did have some lacquered ammo, i'd be certain to clean the gun well after each use to minimize the build up. personally, i'd spend a little extra and buy something with brass casings. however, here's an interesting article on the history and manufacturing process from the horse's mouth on the tula ammo factory.
http://www.luckygunner.com/ammo-manufacturer/tula-ammo-review
http://www.luckygunner.com/ammo-manufacturer/tula-ammo-review
Tula and Wolf have a polymer coating and your answer depends on the gun. A European and Asian designed gun (Glock, HK, AK, FN) will eat it like candy. The American designed guns (Smith, Colt. AR) will hate every second of the stuff.
Personally, I do not like the Tula due to casings breaking and sticking, but I have ran thousands of Wolf throw my Glock without issue.
Personally, I do not like the Tula due to casings breaking and sticking, but I have ran thousands of Wolf throw my Glock without issue.
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I've run LOTS of tulammo through my glock, ruger sr9c, bodyguard, and rr AR and it shoots fine, except for the bodyguard. Common light primer strikes on the 380.
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The build up will only be a problem if you over lube the gun. Lube or solvent will melt the coating, turn it to a goo, solidify and cause the build up. It's more of a problem with lube than it is the coating. Lube gathers carbon, brass shavings, add laquer and it's another ingredient for the goo. FWIW the polymer coating is just as bad. It will still mix with lube and solvents.
Glocks need very little to no lube. Put a drop on a q tip. Very small drop. Lightly put some on the frame rails. Wipe off any lube you can see and what little is left is twice the amount of lube your glock will ever need for the next 1000 rounds.
Lube it proper and shoot any ammo that fits in the magazine and have some fun.
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Yes sir, oil will take it off. Heat will olny make it do it faster. I bumped off 4 mags from the SAR1 with lacquered ammo and left a round in the hot chamber for 30 minutes. Sine I don't over lube the gun the lube stays out of the chamber and off the ammo. The round jacked right out. The extreme heat didn't even melt the laquer.
It will cause you a problem if you keep it loaded in a barrel with cleaning solvents or lubes left over in the chamber. It will do the same in mags.
Lube is a weapons worst enemy and the majority of shooters abuse lube pretty bad, then blame the ammo.
Once you learn a gun don't need lube slathered all over the place alot of problems go away. Glocks love to collect brass shavings and cabon in the striker channel when you over lube it. Lube is a Glocks worst enemy. Every single glock I ever seen choke was due to over lube.
It will cause you a problem if you keep it loaded in a barrel with cleaning solvents or lubes left over in the chamber. It will do the same in mags.
Lube is a weapons worst enemy and the majority of shooters abuse lube pretty bad, then blame the ammo.
Once you learn a gun don't need lube slathered all over the place alot of problems go away. Glocks love to collect brass shavings and cabon in the striker channel when you over lube it. Lube is a Glocks worst enemy. Every single glock I ever seen choke was due to over lube.
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i agree and never over lube my glock, but not because of the ammo i use. but thanks for edumacating me about the lacquer ammo. 
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this is why I use M-PRO7, it takes ANYTHING off .
I've bought used guns that had lead deposits or other marks in various places that the PO said "that marks been there for years" or "that's all the cleaner the barrel gets" and after an overnight soak in M-PRO and a scrub it's gone.
I've bought used guns that had lead deposits or other marks in various places that the PO said "that marks been there for years" or "that's all the cleaner the barrel gets" and after an overnight soak in M-PRO and a scrub it's gone.
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so if we start to see this polymer build up from steel case ammo, is there a product that will remove it? besides gasoline products? I don't feel like messing with those. I never shoot steel case thru my guns but I have 3 glocks(9, 40 and 45), 3 keltecs(9, 40 and 380), a ruger(9mm) and beretta(9mm). I know steel case is cheaper and could save me some money. I clean my guns really good after i shot them everytime.
Kroil http:http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetrating-liquid-KROIL/dp/tags-on-product/B000F09CF4//
Or brake cleaner and will not harm the gun.
Or brake cleaner and will not harm the gun.
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the link is not working. so brake cleaner won't harm any finish on the gun? regardless if it is stainless steel, etc?
No, break cleaner will be fine. If you go to Amazon and search for Kroil or Aero Kroil you will find the other stuff I was talking about. http://www.kanolabs.com/
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Steel casing
I was thinking of asking the same question! There is some very low priced ammo in the Sportsmans Guide magazine this month and I was thinking of getting some. Winchester white box from Walmart is about 24 cents per round including tax by the hundred. These were Wolf steel case and were just over 18 cents per round when you order 250 or more. I may have to check them out. Thanks!
I was thinking of asking the same question! There is some very low priced ammo in the Sportsmans Guide magazine this month and I was thinking of getting some. Winchester white box from Walmart is about 24 cents per round including tax by the hundred. These were Wolf steel case and were just over 18 cents per round when you order 250 or more. I may have to check them out. Thanks!
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