Reloading for a glock

Discussion in 'Ammo & Reloading' started by 50cal pocket pistol, Jan 10, 2012.

  1. 50cal pocket pistol

    50cal pocket pistol New Member

    Does anyone reload ammo for their glocks? I heard that you shouldnt reload for the glock. If you do what powder, bullets etc do you use. I have a glock 27.
  2. jfirecops

    jfirecops New Member

    It is the brass that they say not to reload from a Glock, because it will bulge. You can purchase a bulge buster kit and solve this problem, other than that, any load from any manual that will work for you.

    I load my own and most of the comp shooters I know load theirs. No issues as long as you do it right.

  3. KeenansGarage

    KeenansGarage Hiding in plain sight....

    Stock barrels have and issue with cast lead bullets. If you reload, a lot of people around here use FMJ or Moly coated bullets. Otherwise, work up your powder charges carefully. Follow the tables in the reloading book and don't over do it! Thats how you get all of those 'glock booms!'

    I know I am not much help. I use 9mm, so I can't give you much on powder charge, bullet weight, etc.
  4. jfirecops

    jfirecops New Member

    I think the problem with cast is how they do it, or what they don't do. I cast my own but I use a true bullet lube to coat them with. The problem comes because of how the stock barrels are rifled they can fowl from the soft lead fast. As long as you use the lube and the cleaner you use will dissolve the lead it is ok. The other thing is getting a good, solid pour. I learned from my Dad and Grandpa at a young age so I've been at it awhile, if you not careful with the types of lead and how you cast it you can get hollow, cracked, or trash filled bullets that will come apart when shot.

    As far as powder goes, for targets I stay around the min on 45.
  5. 50cal pocket pistol

    50cal pocket pistol New Member

    I was planning on using fmj with my glock and not taking any chances.
  6. rivalarrival

    rivalarrival Are we there yet?

    I think the manuals for all modern handguns advise against handloading, but only for liability reasons. The gun manufacturer can't know what you stuff inside a cartridge.

    I just started handloading. I would advise you not to trust just one book; check with multiple sources. The maximum, "use with caution" powder charge in the book I was using was just barely enough to cycle the slide reliably. The lightest recommended charge stove piped nearly every time.

    But, the powder manufacturer and a variety of other sources gave minimums and maximums 20% higher than the book's data. Using their data, the action was cycling reliably on all but the very lightest load, and a good, comfortable "plinking" load was slightly greater than the book's maximum.
  7. 50cal pocket pistol

    50cal pocket pistol New Member

    What book were you using?
  8. jidavies

    jidavies New Member

    I reload for all my glocks, M22, M22C, M27. Just be safe. NEVER start with max loads as I have noticed some published max loads are just too max. Remember shot placement is what matters. 800fps will kill you as easy as 1100fps. I inspect my brass, if I have any doubts, I throw it out. If you are stuck on loading hot rounds, buy new brass from here,

    I buy my bullets here,

    I have done a lot of different loads. No problems here. Read the article below,
    I have tried these loads and they are extremely accurate.
  9. 50cal pocket pistol

    50cal pocket pistol New Member

    Do u buy aftermarket barrels for ur glocks or you use stock barrels
  10. jidavies

    jidavies New Member

    I use stormlake aftermarket barrels for shooting lead bullets and hot loads. But with if you choose already fired brass thats in good condition, you can easily use your stock barrel. But aftermarket barrels like stormlake or wolf are very nice. You would not be dissapointed.
  11. rivalarrival

    rivalarrival Are we there yet?

    This was the Hornady book that came with my press. I'm *very* new to reloading. The data for 9mm, 124grn bullets with Alliant "Unique" powder had charges ranging from 4 grains to 5 grains; Alliant says 6 grains maximum. I discovered that charges of less than 4.5 grains simply would not fully cycle the slide; charges of 4.5 grains would occasionally cycle; 4.8 grains cycled reliably; but even 5 grains was far lighter than the 124grn factory loads I had with me for comparison.

    I won't condemn the book for one bad load; my advice is to check a variety of sources and trust the consensus.
  12. all of my shooting partners and myself shoot reloads the most. about the only thing we dont reload are the .40's because they do bulge from high pressure. 9mm.......all day long.:D
  13. EvilD

    EvilD New Member

    No way i can put 100+ rounds a week through any of my guns with out reloading. Lee carbide sizing dies remover the bulge. I have used lead in the past, there are tricks to using it, but its messy and not much cheaper than Berry's plated or moly coated so i dont' use lead anymore.
  14. Blackridge

    Blackridge New Member

    Same here, Lee's dies do a great job of bringing them pretty close back to spec... the only thing that will get it even closer is a casepro roller (but its not needed)

    All my 9's love 124gr Montana Gold FMJ's under 4.4gr of Titegroup @ 1.135oal. Didn't take too long to figure out the recipe, just be sure to start at a good base level and work your way up slowly. The fun thing about reloading is, not only are you saving $$$ over mfg'd stuff, but chances are you'l find a recipe that works much better for you
  15. TimeKiller911

    TimeKiller911 New Member

    glock says not to shoot reloads for liability concerns. however lead casted bullets is not recommended in glock barrels because they have polyagonal grooving and causing leading. 40 cal is all i reload. reloaded and shot over a 1000 rounds without overpressure, malfunctions or bulging. i really don't know where a few of you are getting that info.
  16. TimeKiller911

    TimeKiller911 New Member

    thank you for the link Mike. I read all of it and it my conclusion is the same. In fact, whoever wrote this article, I agree, is spot on. But, did you happen to read this part ?
    1. Do kB!s occur in other guns or just in Glocks?
      kB!s do, of course, occur in other guns, but no one appears to be keeping accurate statistics for most of them. Many 1911-style handguns have partially unsupported case mouths, and numerous case separations have occurred in these guns. Early .38 Super barrels were particularly susceptible, and the critical observer may have noticed the predilection among USPSA .38 Super competitors for full beards in an attempt to cloak the vestiages of what came to be known as "super face."

      Respected firearms author Frank James, in 1994, documented a number of kB!s in HK USP .40 pistols, which do have fully supported chambers. (Also see this!)
    This statement kinda points to the "I don't like Glocks cause I'm a 1911 guy" type attitude.

    Or this?

    1. What causes a kB!?
      Catastrophic failures may be caused by a variety of problems, but in general a kB! is as a result of a case failure. The case failure occurs when pressure inside the cartridge increases to the point that it cannot be contained by the case and the material of the case fails, allowing hot gases to escape from the ruptured case web at damagingly high velocities. The resulting uncontained forces can blow the magazine out of the gun, destroy the locking block, cause the tip of the trigger to be snipped off, ruin the trigger bar, rupture the barrel, peel the forward edge of the slide at the ejection port up, and do other nasty things. In general, Glocks tend to contain case failures fairly well, but under some circumstances they can cause injury as well as damage to one's gun. At least one Federal LEO has been injured in a kB! involving a Glock 21 and a Winchester factory overcharge. Additionally, there is some evidence of there being another cause of a kB!… a barrel failure caused by improper metallurgy.
    Says right there, that Glock is not the cause of kb's. And one LEO injured by a "factory overcharge". Be honest, Winchester Ammo does have a record of being "hot".

    If you put safety first while reloading and start with about 10% less than the minimum load then gradually work your way up, you will be fine. If you overload your reloads, it doesn't matter the manufacturor, consequences could be severe.
  17. jidavies

    jidavies New Member

    I reload for .40 S&W. I reload for 3 .40 S&W's I also reload for 9mm and they are all glocks. I use a stock glock barrels and stormlake barrels. Never a problem here, Although I do not push max or over max loads with range pick up brass. I also pay close attention as I process my brass. The link below has good range shooting load data. Any of the loads are very accurate in Glocks.
  18. I know that reloading is a great way to get exactly the power / performance you are looking for from a cartridge. That can be a nice asset for those shooting copetition, etc. And I know it is usually cheaper than buying off the shelf.

    But HOW MUCH cheaper?

    I have reloaded 12ga shotgun shells a lot. My total cost per shell was a tic less than half of the cheap commercial stuff. In one day of shooting sporting clays I would shoot four boxes (100 shells). So $5 / box at the store compared to about $2.40 / box to reload, I saw a savings of $10 or so for a day of shooting. Shoot 2-3 times a month and that adds up over the course of a summer. I know that some people would add in the value of their time doing the reloading, but I found it to be kind of relaxing and therapeutic. I viewed that time as "free time" -- literally.

    I have an old reloader that we have used for 30-06, 30-30, 30 caliber carbine, 38 special, 44 mag, etc. but I don't have dies for 9mm, and I don't have a great place to set up the reloader now. So I have to consider whether I want to try to find a good place for the reloader setup(?) or just buy my 9mm shells.

    At this time, I don't plan to shoot a lot. I have not planned to do any competitive shooting. Realistically, I will be real lucky to get to the range maybe once-a-month or so when the weather is nice. At the range I would probably go through 200 rounds or so. Over the course of a year, I imagine I'll shoot something like 1600 rounds a year.

    What kind of savings might I realize over the course of a year? Thoughts?
  19. Happysniper1

    Happysniper1 New Member

    Something that needs to be mentioned while on the subject of working up a load recipe, is the need for a reliable chrony. There is simply no other way to determine muzzle velocity. That and carefully inspecting the spent brass when test firing a load, looking for signs of overpressure. I have and highly recommend the RCBS AmmoMaster, but as compared to others it can be a pain to set up (too many plastic parts).

    Another thing to keep in mind when working from the recipe from reference materials, is the barrel length. All the load data I have seen identify the test barrel used for their loads. This is because a longer barrel with any given load will develop higher muzzle velocities than the same load in a shorter barrel because the bullet exits the muzzle before all the powder is combusted in a shorter barrel. In a longer barrel, the powder is able to combust completely. A fun test for incomplete combustion is to watch the size of the muzzle flash at night: a bigger muzzle flash generally means more wasted gunpowder (powder that burns after the bullet leaves the muzzle).

    I reload for my G26 and G30, both subcompacts, and notice that the ideal velocities (for me, as chronographed) are on the high side of some load guides. When I use some recipes I like and have experimented with, I notice the powder charge is at or over the "do not exceed" in some books, with the muzzle velocities spot on. I just make sure these loads are marked for my '26 (or the '30) so that I do not accidentally load them into a pistol with a longer barrel.

    Just a thought....