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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so the Trigger Housing pin is a straight M3x23mm, no problem replacing it with a stainless pin from the hardware store. The Trigger pin has two cuts in it to lock it to the slide stop so it'll not "walk" during firing, go that, easy enough to cut it using a drill to turn the pin and the Dremel with a cut off wheel to make the cuts. Question is about the Locking Block Pin. Big on both ends but turned down along the middle part of the pin. Why is it turned down, could you just run a straight pin or is it turned down so it'll catch or something like the Slide Stop Spring so it'll not "walk" or what? Thanks.
 

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The metal pins are metal because they contact metal components and the trigger housing pin is polymer for the same reason.
I believe the size of the LBP is even more sinster than that Frank.

IMO the LBP is larger on the ends because that is the only place it supports the LB in polymer. It doesn't make contact with the LB but at the reduced diameter so maybe the LB friction helps to hold this pin in place as well by riding on the pin in the groove.

Also the lug of the barrel fits right over the LB and pin. Maybe the full diameter pin would be in the way.

Why do you have to mess with perfection?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Why do you have to mess with perfection?
Because I can.:D
Really though, I wanted to get a set of Stainless pins from Glockmeister but $15 bucks for 3 pins, OUCH! That's $5 bucks a pin. I can pick up a stainless pin to replace the plastic Trigger Housing pin for under a buck locally and probably get the others for about the same price then mod them to work.
You're basically saying that the plastic Trigger Housing pin is suppose to be plastic because it's in contact with other plastic parts, guess that makes sense but wouldn't a stainless pin be sturdier?
I'm just real bad to tinker with my guns and always looking for little, inexpensive ways to upgrade them to make them just a touch better. Seems like swapping out a plastic pin for a stainless one would be logical since stainless is tougher then plastic. :rolleyes:
IDK, if others feel that staying stock on the pins is best then I'll just stay stock but it seems like a lot of folks swap them out for stainless or titanium. :confused:
 

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Because I can.:D
Really though, I wanted to get a set of Stainless pins from Glockmeister but $15 bucks for 3 pins, OUCH! That's $5 bucks a pin. I can pick up a stainless pin to replace the plastic Trigger Housing pin for under a buck locally and probably get the others for about the same price then mod them to work.
You're basically saying that the plastic Trigger Housing pin is suppose to be plastic because it's in contact with other plastic parts, guess that makes sense but wouldn't a stainless pin be sturdier?
I'm just real bad to tinker with my guns and always looking for little, inexpensive ways to upgrade them to make them just a touch better. Seems like swapping out a plastic pin for a stainless one would be logical since stainless is tougher then plastic. :rolleyes:
IDK, if others feel that staying stock on the pins is best then I'll just stay stock but it seems like a lot of folks swap them out for stainless or titanium. :confused:
Well here sits all these engineers with jobs doing research and development (R&D) making back some of that hard earned cash they spent for their years of college education. Most of them probably have more than one degree in something neither you nor I know anything about.

But there you sit with nothing better to do and figure you know better then all their experience put together. Your UPGRADE isn't wise in my view, but hey WTH do I know, I just have a GED and huh, several years of OTJ training in mechancial junk. IMO and with the limited education I have from discussions with machinist that could make my head swim and drop my jaw in awe, I'm going to say you're screwing up the trigger housing in the long run. Little by little you keep gouging the hole out in the trigger housing and see where it gets ya.

Hows the saying go, "If ya going to be dumb, ya gotta be tough."

For your safety though I hope it isn't you EDC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I've worked as a Machinist for quite a number of years too for none less then McMillian Arms helping them turn out the "Big 50's" in '89 for the Navy so it's not like I'm a "noob" who's going to his first rodeo.
I do here what you're saying about metal on plastic messing up the plastic. Probably the reason they went with a plastic pin in the first place, makes perfect sense. Guess I'll just keep the pins stock and not waste my money.
Well here sits all these engineers with jobs doing research and development (R&D) making back some of that hard earned cash they spent for their years of college education. Most of them probably have more than one degree in something neither you nor I know anything about.
Probably and I'm sure they were also told to keep costs down and cut corners where ever they could to keep the gun as inexpensive as possible too.
For your safety though I hope it isn't you EDC.
It's not only my EDC, it's my ONLY gun.
 

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About 15 or so years ago companies came out with metal magazines for Glocks. They were supposed to fix perceived problems with the Glock. They caused issues especially eating up magazine releases. Now you don't see those magazines anymore.
Your pins may work but maybe they could cause unforseen issues.
Good luck either way.
 

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I'm not sure the trigger housing pin is 3mm diameter. I have tried this too. I also tried fractional sizes to no success. The 3mm would start but could not push through...also I didn't want to press too hard because of the metal on plastic. Funny thing here is this is what I do for a living. I sell industrial supplies, fasteners etc., and have not yet figured out this size. I haven't tried whats called an oversized dowel pin but I may now.

Did you read somewhere that it is a 3mm? Or mic it?
 

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I've worked as a Machinist for quite a number of years too for none less then McMillian Arms helping them turn out the "Big 50's" in '89 for the Navy so it's not like I'm a "noob" who's going to his first rodeo.
I do here what you're saying about metal on plastic messing up the plastic. Probably the reason they went with a plastic pin in the first place, makes perfect sense. Guess I'll just keep the pins stock and not waste my money.

Probably and I'm sure they were also told to keep costs down and cut corners where ever they could to keep the gun as inexpensive as possible too.

It's not only my EDC, it's my ONLY gun.
Yea I know that all ready Frank, I read your post every chance I get:D I was poking some fun and forgot the smilies;)

But saving money would have ment purching pins already available on the market, not remaking them in polymer, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Your pins may work but maybe they could cause unforseen issues.
Good luck either way.
Umm, my pins are totally stock so YEP, they work.:D
Yea I know that all ready Frank, I read your post every chance I get:D I was poking some fun and forgot the smilies;)
LOL, guess I'm just so use to a few guys on "the other" Glock forum talking down to me like I'm stupid or something that I just misinterpreted your information. I know, this place ain't the other place.:rolleyes:
But saving money would have ment purching pins already available on the market, not remaking them in polymer, right?
I was going to get stainless pins and cut them to match the factory ones but I guess I'll just run what I've got since the ol' saying "If it ain't broken, don't fix it." pretty much applies here.;)
 

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......

"If it ain't broken, don't fix it." pretty much applies here.;)
Yep, besides nobody sees it, I mean it isn't like you're open carrying and displaying it to the world.:cool::cool:

Kinda like blowing a beautiful girl a kiss across the street in the dark. Nobody knows it occured except you.
 
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