so i was reading that recoil spring guide that for a glock 34 they suggest using a 13 lbs spring with 4 coils removed. so after getting a new Jager Products gen4 adapter guide rod with a 13 lbs recoil spring. i removed the 4 coils as the guide stated. but now when i dry fire and let the slide forward after racking it is slow to get back into battery and once i let the trigger go it then goes all the way forward. but if i power stroke the slide it has no problems going back into battery..should i be worried about it potentially not going into battery after shooting a live round??
potential recoil spring problem?
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Just to be clear...are you saying it's slow to go into battery when you're riding the slide forward? As in, you pull it back and then hold it as it's going forward? If yes, that's not how it's designed to function and you can get any gun to do that. Also, you should be letting go of the trigger before it gets all the way forward; part of the action when the slide moves forward is resetting the trigger. If you're holding the trigger, it can't do that.
I'd say that since it works fine when you slingshot the slide, it's probably fine. The best way to find out, though, is to go shoot it. I'd take the factory guide rod along, in case you do have problems.
I'd say that since it works fine when you slingshot the slide, it's probably fine. The best way to find out, though, is to go shoot it. I'd take the factory guide rod along, in case you do have problems.
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1,517 Posts
Sorry but you are incoorect in that the slide shouldn't go completely forward with the trigger held all the way to the rear as if firing the gun.
The recoil spring in any GLOCK should have sufficient energy to return the slide to full battery when held at a 45 degree (up) angle with the trigger held to the rear and with the free hand lightly riding the slide home.
This test we do as armorers to ensure the recoil will operate even a dirty gun or when firing bad ammo.
The OP should not have cut coils off the spring without first testing the spring as I see it.
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+1,
Holding the trigger down and slowly riding the slide forward until about 1 inch short of going into battery and then releasing pressure on the slide while still holding down the trigger is a function test of the Glock's recoil spring. If it fails to go into full battery it's an indicator that your recoil spring is wearing and likely will need replaced soon.
First minute of this video explains this pretty well
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UK-5Fw3yjcM[/ame]
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Boy, he's all over that "Trigger Reset" ain't he?
Where did he get that from?Trigger reset is all about control and getting of the shots following the first one as quickly as possible. So, after any shot really, you quickly allow the trigger to only travel as far as necessary to reset the trigger (not allow it to travel as far forward as in the video). This removes the slack for breaking the next shot.
Steps:
Trigger is pulled and the gun fires AND you continue to hold the trigger fully to the rear.
Now slowly release the trigger and you'll feel or hear a click, stop there.
Now pull the trigger and the gun fires again without having to pull the trigger through the range of motion as it took to break that first shot.
May I should start making Glock videos....
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