Glock Firearms banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Was doing this for one of my buddy's G23 Gen 3 Advantage Arms .22LR kit.
He saw the barrel I did on my G23 Gen 4 and the Gen 4 G23 AA kit that I have and he asked me to do this on his kit, as well.

He wants to start shooting cheaper ammo and wanted the "Make your Advantage Arms Kit Eat Anything" mod, without the extractor polish.

Seems like that user on the other forums has deleted his reference photos and such so I"m going to paste the text here for posterity:

For owners of Advantage Arms .22cal Conversion Kit for Glock - This is what I did to my AA kit and now works much better and with most ammo NOT recomended by AA.
First, I pushed/tapped out the rolled slatted pin that holds the extractor & safety together and removed both pieces. If you don't feel comfortable removing any of these parts, DON'T do it! ....but you can still polish them while installed.
Not great pictures but at least you'll get the idea of were the parts are located.
1. Hex screw- 2. Safety(These 2 parts have direct contact with the vertical extension of the Glock trigger bar which, in this case and as a Glock owner, it's also a good idea to polish.) 3. Extractor- 4. Glock trigger bar vertical extension - 5. Ejector (arrows shows contact parts where to polish) - 6. Firing pin ( same contact parts as the Glock pin)- 7. Feed ramp.
You can also polish the entire barrel plus the three flat surfaces of the receiver block. Same goes for the firing pin and the ejector.
Sounds like a lot of polishing but, once finished, I ended up with an extremely smooth AA .22cal Conversion Kit that feeds different kind of .22 ammo. XXXXXXXX mentioned to me that, beside polishing the feed ramp, you can also polish the chamber, using a Q-Tip, down to the length of the .22cal casing. This will feed and extract even more different types of ammo.
please keep in mind that these are not my instructions and polishing any piece of a firearm carries with it risks. By doing this process, you assume ALL responsibility for the results.

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
BTT for GEEK......
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good luck!!! Post pics when you're done.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
357 Posts
I did some polishing, though didn't get things as shiny as you did. I polished the barrel exterior, including into the chamber, the ejector, the firing pin (complete with firing the spring across the room).

My problem now seems to be exclusively failure to extract/eject. You mention pushing out the roll pin and polishing the extractor, but the extractor in your picture seems to still be black and the safety appears to be plastic, so what are you polishing once you take that roll pin out?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
357 Posts
Update: I knocked out the roll pin and couldn't find anything else to polish as a result, so I lubed everything and put it back together. Everything now runs fine for any brand of 1200 fps .22lr ammo. I tried some 800 fps CCI, that was still not good, but the website says not to use standard velocity. Any high velocity ammo now seems to work.

Mine still doesn't look as shiny as the pictures above, so maybe if I were in the mood to do some more polishing I could get it to handle the standard velocity, but I am satisfied with the performance now. I used Flitz polish on mine for anyone who is interested.

The kit comes with adjustable sites and mine was shooting just a tad left, so my next trip to the range will include a jeweler's screwdriver and that should be the final adjustment I need to make.

Overall, I am satisfied with the result and would recommend the kit, with the warning that you may have to do a bit of polishing to get satisfactory results.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry man. I didn't see your post from 4-2.


I never got around to knocking the pin out, but the extractor should be polished.

Sounds like things have gotten better. Mine needs to be repolished as its started to have extraction issues again with the cheap federal blue bulk pack.

I actually polished the surface of the "safety plunger" on the kit.

D
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
357 Posts
So I should remove the black finish on the extractor and polish it? I can do that, but whaat should I expect in performance? I've tested with Minimags, Federal and Fiocci 1200 fps and all are good now. Standard velocity is not good, but is also not recommended by Advantage Arms. Unless polishing that part is going to get the kit to cycle with standard velocity ammo, which would be convenient during this period of hard to find .22, but less valuable in the long run, I'd be adding nothing.

My bias at the moment is to feed it Federal, which I have plenty of, or Fiocci, which runs just as well.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you're good with what you run most, I wouldn't do the extractor polish.

The "minimum" on the "Eat anything" mod was the barrel, chamber face, feed ramp, the "slide actuator" thing, and the safety plunger.

I'd let it go for now and see how it runs for a couple of thousand rounds.

D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
BTT for BlueSheepDog
 

·
Newb
Joined
·
69 Posts
Thanks! I'll be doing some more polishing. I'd eventually like this thing to look like chrome. I've been using the Dremel brand Jewelers polish stuff. I just got some Flitz. I'll try that as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,061 Posts
Thanks! I'll be doing some more polishing. I'd eventually like this thing to look like chrome. I've been using the Dremel brand Jewelers polish stuff. I just got some Flitz. I'll try that as well.
Flitz is good. I like blue magic if you can find it. Brasso is good too. Good luck!
 

·
Newb
Joined
·
69 Posts
Well, I took it all apart today and polished it all up to a mirror shine. The safety, extractor, barrel, and everything that I could think of. I also polished the breech face. I saw pitting after only 500 rounds. I also clean after every range session.

I shot a speed steel match and had a ton of jams. It was weird as during practice, I was shooting Federal Champion 40 grain solid 1240 FPS and it was cycling just fine. During the match it ran for crap. So, tomorrow will tell how well it shoots after it's all been polished up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Blusheepdog - does one roll pin hold the extractor (with spring) and the safety all together? Is it pretty easy to get it all back together?

I am new to Glocks and just not familiar on how the parts are tied together.

I have a new kit and am polishing it with Flitz.. I started out by hand then used a cotton pad on a dremel type tool going very lightly - WOW, using the tool really made it much smoother than by hand..

Not to hijack this thread, but i just posted a question about modifying the ejector in the if any would care to take a look

Brian
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,787 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,519 Posts
A big reason for failure to extract/eject on the AA conversion has to do with the case design of the ammo used. All .22 ammo is not created equally. While most high velocity 22 ammo is similar in velocity and bullet weight, take aa close look at the case rim of different brands of 22 ammo. I compared Remington, Winchester, and CCI case rims and noticed a difference in the sharpness of the rim itself. The Remington case rim had a more rounded profile and the Wjnchester had a more pronounced edge on the rim. As a result I had many issues with the remington ammo but very few issues with the winchester and the CCI. If the case rim is more rounded on the top side where the extractor contacts it it will be more likely to jump over the rim and result in a FTE. I found this same issue to be true with my Sig Mosquito as it was with my AA conversion. The reason I stumbled onto this theory was by reading the ammo recommendations from AA and Sig literature. After reading what they had trouble with I started looking at the case rims with a magnifying glass and noticed the difference in the rim profile. Anyhow just thought I'd mention this so others might see if it helps them.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,371 Posts
A big reason for failure to extract/eject on the AA conversion has to do with the case design of the ammo used. All .22 ammo is not created equally. While most high velocity 22 ammo is similar in velocity and bullet weight, take aa close look at the case rim of different brands of 22 ammo. I compared Remington, Winchester, and CCI case rims and noticed a difference in the sharpness of the rim itself. The Remington case rim had a more rounded profile and the Wjnchester had a more pronounced edge on the rim. As a result I had many issues with the remington ammo but very few issues with the winchester and the CCI. If the case rim is more rounded on the top side where the extractor contacts it it will be more likely to jump over the rim and result in a FTE. I found this same issue to be true with my Sig Mosquito as it was with my AA conversion. The reason I stumbled onto this theory was by reading the ammo recommendations from AA and Sig literature. After reading what they had trouble with I started looking at the case rims with a magnifying glass and noticed the difference in the rim profile. Anyhow just thought I'd mention this so others might see if it helps them.
Props to 40caljim... he gets it...!
I will add, a mediocre extractor into the mix, you get more consistent FTE`s.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,519 Posts
Thanks PaPow, I really liked the AA conversion kit but it was so finicky about ammo that I sold it and bought a complete .22 pistol. Now I shoot a S&W M&P .22 Compact. Love it cause it has the same feel in the grip as my S&W Shield.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top