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Just got a new Lone Wolf ported barrel for my Glock 30sf. Should I oil it before I take it out to test at the range?
 

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GrassHopper
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boombah said:
Just got a new Lone Wolf ported barrel for my Glock 30sf. Should I oil it before I take it out to test at the range?
Run some oil on it and dry it off if you want... Don't see why cause it will run dry, unless you are worried about it rusting, just keep it clean!

Oh, and have fun shooting!!! :D
 

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LWD barrels are stainless so you won't have to worry about rust. I'd check to make sure your ammo of choice will chamber properly in the barrel before you try to rack a round into the barrel. You can do this one of two ways, either just drop a round into the barrel while it's off of the gun and check to make sure it's going to clear the barrel hood by laying a flat edge across the barrel hood or you can put the barrel into the slide and as you drop it in have a dummy round that you can let slip under the extractor and into the chamber as you seat the barrel into the slide. Either way will let you know if you'll have enough throat in the barrel to work with your ammo of if you'll have to open up the throat area of the barrel(like I had to) in order to work properly.
 

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LWD barrels are stainless so you won't have to worry about rust. I'd check to make sure your ammo of choice will chamber properly in the barrel before you try to rack a round into the barrel. You can do this one of two ways, either just drop a round into the barrel while it's off of the gun and check to make sure it's going to clear the barrel hood by laying a flat edge across the barrel hood or you can put the barrel into the slide and as you drop it in have a dummy round that you can let slip under the extractor and into the chamber as you seat the barrel into the slide. Either way will let you know if you'll have enough throat in the barrel to work with your ammo of if you'll have to open up the throat area of the barrel(like I had to) in order to work properly.
I had a problem with reloads chambering. They all fed and fired fine in my 1911. The LWD barrel has tigher tolerences and lead bullets are larger than jacketed bullets by .001" to .002". I eventually learned to adjust my loading procedure to get cartridges to chamber properly. I was using a roll crimp die which worked 90% of the time. Since then, I've moved to a taper crimp die and have had no issues.

I plunk/drop test every round now just to be sure.
 

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I had a problem with reloads chambering. They all fed and fired fine in my 1911. The LWD barrel has tigher tolerences and lead bullets are larger than jacketed bullets by .001" to .002". I eventually learned to adjust my loading procedure to get cartridges to chamber properly. I was using a roll crimp die which worked 90% of the time. Since then, I've moved to a taper crimp die and have had no issues.
I plunk/drop test every round now just to be sure.
Roll Crimps are for revolvers, not semis. Taper Crimp is for Semis. The chambers are the same spec as the Glock barrel, it's the throat/leade/freebore or whatever you want to call it where they are tight. The rifling comes right back almost to the chamber and just ahead of the chamber the tolerances are tight. If they'd open up the barrel to .452" for about .050" just ahead of the chamber they could solve 90% of the problems that folks report with their LWD barrels.
I used my Dremel and buffing wheels with rouge to polish out the barrel just ahead of the chamber so that I could now load my Turncated Cone, .452" bullets to my normal 1.210" OAL . Of course before I did that I had to shorten up all my loaded rounds to 1.180" to get them to work. Once I shoot all of those up I'm going back to 1.210".
Other then that little "problem" I've found my LWD barrel to be pretty decent. Nice, tight lock up, love the stainless look and the standard rifling.
 

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Roll Crimps are for revolvers, not semis. Taper Crimp is for Semis. The chambers are the same spec as the Glock barrel, it's the throat/leade/freebore or whatever you want to call it where they are tight. The rifling comes right back almost to the chamber and just ahead of the chamber the tolerances are tight. If they'd open up the barrel to .452" for about .050" just ahead of the chamber they could solve 90% of the problems that folks report with their LWD barrels.
I used my Dremel and buffing wheels with rouge to polish out the barrel just ahead of the chamber so that I could now load my Turncated Cone, .452" bullets to my normal 1.210" OAL . Of course before I did that I had to shorten up all my loaded rounds to 1.180" to get them to work. Once I shoot all of those up I'm going back to 1.210".
Other then that little "problem" I've found my LWD barrel to be pretty decent. Nice, tight lock up, love the stainless look and the standard rifling.

I understand about the roll vs taper crimp dies however my 45 acp dies that I bought 20 years ago came with a roll crimp.

I disagree with the chambers being the same size (Glock factory vs. LWD) The same rounds that would not fit into the LWD barrel would run in the Glock barrel. It had nothing to do with the leade in my case. Additionally, you could visibly see less side to side movement of the round in the LWD barrel vs. the Factory Glock.

All is good now. It all runs.
 

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boombah said:
Just got a new Lone Wolf ported barrel for my Glock 30sf. Should I oil it before I take it out to test at the range?
I just put 500 rounds of brown bear through my new LW extended ported barrel and had no issues what so ever right out of the box
 

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G26 W/lone wolf extended- ported barrel!!!RUST

I agree stainless should not be rusting. The 26 is rusting. Installed 6 maybe 8 months ago along with the same mod to my G22. No rust on the 22. Both kept clean in the same way after use. I know I don't believe it either. The trigger block also has rust. The only guess I have is electrolysis. I was going to call lone wolf today but I got sidetracked to the range. Looks like rust, smells like rust, taste like rust, sure glad I Didn't step in it. Some will get that LoL. For the rest just replace "rust" with something you don't want to step in.
 

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Roll Crimps are for revolvers, not semis. Taper Crimp is for Semis. The chambers are the same spec as the Glock barrel, it's the throat/leade/freebore or whatever you want to call it where they are tight. The rifling comes right back almost to the chamber and just ahead of the chamber the tolerances are tight. If they'd open up the barrel to .452" for about .050" just ahead of the chamber they could solve 90% of the problems that folks report with their LWD barrels.
I used my Dremel and buffing wheels with rouge to polish out the barrel just ahead of the chamber so that I could now load my Turncated Cone, .452" bullets to my normal 1.210" OAL . Of course before I did that I had to shorten up all my loaded rounds to 1.180" to get them to work. Once I shoot all of those up I'm going back to 1.210".
Other then that little "problem" I've found my LWD barrel to be pretty decent. Nice, tight lock up, love the stainless look and the standard rifling.
I also disgree that the chamber tolerances are the same because they are not Most all aftermarket barrels are tighter in the chamber than any factory barrel. Like the other poster said I have taken bullets that would fall into tge glock chamber and would not go into my lone wolf. A round that fits snug in my lone wolf barrel with wobble back and forth in the stock glock barrel.
 
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