[JPochron]

Hope someone can offer some expertise on removing a slide off a Glock 23 Gen4 with the trigger remaing in the cocked position. I installed Lone Wolfs Carry package kit which includes the 3.5# trigger connector and the NY trigger spring. As I mentioned in another thread the trigger stays in the same position even after pulling it. I've tried to remove the slide but since the trigger is in this position I can't get it off. Any suggestions in removing it and correcting this problem would be greatly appreciated. I'm certain I assembled everything correctly so I'm at a lost as to what could be causing this issue.

Thanks,

Joe

 

[NvRBanArms]

Try wrapping tape around the trigger to hold it back then do the strip.

 

[NvRBanArms]

That's just to get it off for now. But I never messed with the trigger spring on my guns or trigger kits. So I really don't know. Just trying to help.

 

[Happysniper1]

Can the slide be returned to battery, or is it frozen solid?

I am not familiar with the Lone Wolf connector installation, but found this note on another website:

Lone Wolf 3.5 connector installation problem
Just thought I would mention my installation problems with the new Lone Wolf connector. I will summarize a few hours of frustration:

I ordered 2 and just received them from the latest batch. The target was my G4 G34. After installing the connector, my pistol did not feel right and would often refuse to reset because of not fully returning to battery (during dry fire). The trigger felt OK but the pistol acted like there was excessive friction, the slide did not move smoothly. I tried the second connector with the same result.

This time I looked more closely and could see the connector was bent such that it was way to the right compared to the Glock part - resulting in binding the trigger bar against the slide. I bent the connector back to approximately match the Glock bend angle and everything was good. Later, I stumbled upon the installation instructions for Ghost connectors on their website (Thank You Ghost) and saw they had specific instructions on how to check and adjust this critical clearance.to 0.003".

So the connector works well, but I am disappointed in the quality control and lack of installation instructions which could have saved me some trouble and mentioned this issue. On their website, the Ghost folks say tolerances vary, so this might not always be a simple drop-in part. It was not for me in any event.

As well as this note:

So far the only issues I've heard of is putting them in the Gen 4's..
__________________

Now, I do not know how similar or how different the Ghost connector is, but read the info below on installation, as it (the Ghost part) is not a drop-in installation:
http://www.ghostinc.com/c=Vaudp69Jlm1HP9cGrWDTh1x8t/category/istallationinstructions/

Sorry I cannot be of more help.

Good luck to you, and please let us know what happens!

 

[rivalarrival]

Pulling the trigger normally, the sear pulls back on the striker. At the end of the travel, the sear is pulled downward by the connector, releasing the striker to move forward of the sear. If the striker is behind the sear when you release the slide, the striker grabs the sear, preventing the slide from releasing. This is why you have to pull the trigger. This is why it it sucks to be you if you can't get the sear to drop down so the striker can move in front of it. This seems to be what's happening.

Wouldn't it be nice if you could just pull the striker out of the back of the gun, so the rest of the slide could just fall forward?

Ever detail strip the slide?

Lock the slide back, and you can depress the striker sleeve with a punch/pen/q-tip/toothpick or a Glock Disassembly Tool if you want to be all boring about it. Remove the back plate, remove the striker itself. With the striker removed, you should be able to release the slide, pull the takedown lever, and drop the slide off the front. I just did this with my Gen 3 G26. Removed the slide from my glock for the very first time without having to pull the trigger first.

Let us know how it goes!

Photos to come, as soon as my phone starts playing nice...

 

[rivalarrival]

Photos pretty much say it all - if you've detail stripped your slide before, you'll understand them.

 

[JPochron]

Can the slide be returned to battery, or is it frozen solid?

I am not familiar with the Lone Wolf connector installation, but found this note on another website:

As well as this note:

Now, I do not know how similar or how different the Ghost connector is, but read the info below on installation, as it (the Ghost part) is not a drop-in installation:
http://www.ghostinc.com/c=Vaudp69Jlm1HP9cGrWDTh1x8t/category/istallationinstructions/

Sorry I cannot be of more help.

Good luck to you, and please let us know what happens!

The slide moves as it is supposed to. No problem in racking it just can't get it off.

Joe

 

[JPochron]

Thanks very much for your detailed instruction. I will try your method and let you know how it goes. Very informative.

Thanks

Joe

 

[JPochron]

Thanks to everyone that responded. I will update once I get it operational again.

Joe

 

[voyager4520]

With the NY trigger spring installed, the trigger must be held to the rear while you field strip.

You might try this grip, with your right hand ring or pinky finger holding the trigger to the rear:
http://www.reviewsofthings.com/images/glock-slide-removal.jpg

 

[JPochron]

With the NY trigger spring installed, the trigger must be held to the rear while you field strip.

You might try this grip, with your right hand pinky finger holding the trigger to the rear:
http://www.reviewsofthings.com/images/glock-slide-removal.jpg

Omg I have a difficult enough time field stripping as it is with arthritis in my hands and that will be even tougher to remove the slide. However I will find a way to get er done. Thanks for the info.

Joe

 

[Happysniper1]

Just don't get so frustrated with it that you start thinking about a hammer and a pry-bar

 

[voyager4520]

If you have a vice, you could put a pen that you don't mind crushing into the vice and tighten it, then field strip while pushing the trigger against the pen to keep the trigger to the rear.

 

[SHOOTER13]

Moved to the correct sub forum: Gunsmithing

 

[JPochron]

Just don't get so frustrated with it that you start thinking about a hammer and a pry-bar

Lol I ASSure you that's not going to happen.

Joe

 

[JPochron]

Eureka I can't thank you all enough. I got it off by removing the back plate. Y'all have been a great deal of help and I learn more and more about taking a Glock apart than I can possibly imagine. I have a titanium Firing Pin Safety I think it's called in place and after I removed the slide it fell out on its own. Could that have been part of my problem? Isn't that item supposed to be locked into place?

Thanks

Joe

 

[JPochron]

Pulling the trigger normally, the sear pulls back on the striker. At the end of the travel, the sear is pulled downward by the connector, releasing the striker to move forward of the sear. If the striker is behind the sear when you release the slide, the striker grabs the sear, preventing the slide from releasing. This is why you have to pull the trigger. This is why it it sucks to be you if you can't get the sear to drop down so the striker can move in front of it. This seems to be what's happening.

Wouldn't it be nice if you could just pull the striker out of the back of the gun, so the rest of the slide could just fall forward?

Ever detail strip the slide?

Lock the slide back, and you can depress the striker sleeve with a punch/pen/q-tip/toothpick or a Glock Disassembly Tool if you want to be all boring about it. Remove the back plate, remove the striker itself. With the striker removed, you should be able to release the slide, pull the takedown lever, and drop the slide off the front. I just did this with my Gen 3 G26. Removed the slide from my glock for the very first time without having to pull the trigger first.

Let us know how it goes!

Photos to come, as soon as my phone starts playing nice...

Thank you for your advice, it worked. Your information was extremely helpful. Was able to disassemble easily with your method. I don't think the problem is with the sear. I think it is the NY trigger spring that installed which keeps the trigger in the ready position. I suppose icing reinstalled the stock spring this would prove my theory.

Joe

 

[JPochron]

With the NY trigger spring installed, the trigger must be held to the rear while you field strip.

You might try this grip, with your right hand ring or pinky finger holding the trigger to the rear:
http://www.reviewsofthings.com/images/glock-slide-removal.jpg

I tried as you suggested and for me utterly impossible to remove the slide with that method. Had to remove the back cover to disassemble the slide. But thanks for your advice.

Joe

 

[JPochron]

Moved to the correct sub forum: Gunsmithing

Where do you find the gunsmithing section? Sorry I didn't see it.

Thanks,

Joe

 

[JPochron]

Moved to the correct sub forum: Gunsmithing

Found it on my iPad but not the iPhone. Surprisingly the formats are a tad bit different.

Joe