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· G17 G19
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Using a small file, wood dowel with a felt pad on one end, small hammer and lots of patience.

*No Glock or sight damaged during the process. :D

Took lots of photos for anyone that may be considering these on their Glock.





 

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I had them put on my latest Gen4 17 and freakin love them. Never thought I would like the "straight 8" design but these changed my mind.

I got the ones with the orange halo front.

The only down side I've seen so far is.....you have to spend a decent amount of time getting to know the sights for true low light/no light conditions. The Trijicon part on the front sight is quite a bit smaller than the halo which was causing me to stack the Trijicon tubes dead on each other which would cause an extremely low shot. You just need to get used to how far the Trijicon tubes are apart before shooting in low light conditions where you cant see the halo at all since in day light conditions the halo fills the notch in the rear sight.

Here's mine. Did I mention I love these things? Best sights I've tried so far.


 

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Mike P said:
I had them put on my latest Gen4 17 and freakin love them. Never thought I would like the "straight 8" design but these changed my mind.

I got the ones with the orange halo front.

The only down side I've seen so far is.....you have to spend a decent amount of time getting to know the sights for true low light/no light conditions. The Trijicon part on the front sight is quite a bit smaller than the halo which was causing me to stack the Trijicon tubes dead on each other which would cause an extremely low shot. You just need to get used to how far the Trijicon tubes are apart before shooting in low light conditions where you cant see the halo at all since in day light conditions the halo fills the notch in the rear sight.

Here's mine. Did I mention I love these things? Best sights I've tried so far.
This is very interesting and not something I would have thought about. I'm about to buy sights so my question is... If you were buying again would you have gotten the halo ones or just the trijicon?

Ps. Nice summary. It took me a minute to put it all together because I'm an idiot but excellent explanation.
 

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This is very interesting and not something I would have thought about. I'm about to buy sights so my question is... If you were buying again would you have gotten the halo ones or just the trijicon?

Ps. Nice summary. It took me a minute to put it all together because I'm an idiot but excellent explanation.
When I say "halo" I mean the colored part around the Trijicon tubes. The glow in the dark part is made by and installed by Trijicon for Ameriglo. Then Ameriglo sells the sights under their name but the sights are marked Trijicon on top of them. Make sense?

Look closely at my front sight pic, the white part in the middle of the orange halo is the Trijicon part that glows in the dark.

When I got mine GT Distributors only had the orange halo ones on hand. The OP's front sights have the white halo.

Even though I have not looked down the barrel of one equipped with the white halo I like mine because to me, it's just that much more defined. You can clearly see the white inside the orange to get a better centering effect when looking at them....if that makes sense.
 

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Pic's just don't do them justice because in real time the halo almost fills the entire notch of the rear sight with very little gap on each side of the front blade so it's almost self centering as long as you don't see any flat spots on the halo. Target acquisition is ridiculously fast
 

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Mike P said:
Pic's just don't do them justice because in real time the halo almost fills the entire notch of the rear sight with very little gap on each side of the front blade so it's almost self centering as long as you don't see any flat spots on the halo. Target acquisition is ridiculously fast
MikeP is spot on... These are the best sights far and away that I have ever used. Even in decent daylight, they "glow" every bit as good as fiber optic sights, but they're much less fragile (and they work in night/ low light too). As MikeP said, target acquisition and transitioning between targets is ridiculously fast.
 

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I did notice that in certain lighting/shading conditions during the day that the rear dot is kind of hard to see but in the day time you seriously don't need it because of how well the front halo fits the notch. In that scenario I would compare them to competition combat sights that a lot of guys use where the back is nothing but black.
 

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Cruiser, looks good...but I wouldn't have filed them though. This is just my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt. Reason is the dove tail has a hollow void that flexes a minuscule amount as it is pressed in. A little CLP is all that is needed. The CLP will provide enough lube to make those minute adjustments (with pusher) before being shot out at the range. Solid dove tails would need to be filed (ie. Warren rears, etc). Now this opinion is solely based on me putting on a set dry on my 26, and lubed on my 19. I noticed that the resistance that you probably felt (if put on dry) was caused by the walls of the dove tail. It was not coming from the bottom. So given that the tail was hollowed I did not want to take any material off the wall. It was a biotch pressing it in dry, and frustrating making small adjustments. CLP fixed that though, but had to wait for it to soak in where it was needed. On the 19, I lubed it from the get go, it pressed on a hell of a lot easier, even though when inserted by hand it stopped at the same place as the one I put on dry (in other words it pressed in just like a solid dove tail would when filed to reach appropriate position when inserted by hand). Tiny adjustments were exact, CLP was shot out, and the sight has been rock steady (hasn't moved).
 
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