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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure if this post belongs in the gunsmithing section or not, but for lack of a better option, here it is...

Has anyone had their Glock frame detailed with the Hydro-dip (HydroGraphics) process?

If so, can you post pics for us to see?

I have seen a couple videos of the process on YouTube, and it looks like if you aren't careful the entire frame could look like crap...

I was hoping to find someone that has had either the black, or silver carbon fiber pattern applied, but I would be happy with pics and testimonials from anyone that has had this done...or has done it themselves... Does this hold up well to use?

For those that have not seen this process yet...
 

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I had a shotgun dipped a few years ago. Very durable, plus they give a lifetime warranty on it.
 

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Is That a .40....nope its a 10MM!
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there is a place called liquid dimension in Harris county ga look them up on fb they they plenty of glocks dipped that look amazingly great
 

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It is far inferior to Duracoat which is intended for firearms. Dipping produces a hard finish and hard is not what you want. Duracoat surpasses all others because it maintains its elastic nature. It is also difficult to get any kind of real unique results with dipping. I would also venture that dipping it would be far more expensive than duracoat.

So you see Duracoat is a better deal all around, and you support this forum by using it ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
nukinfuts29 said:
It is far inferior to Duracoat which is intended for firearms. Dipping produces a hard finish and hard is not what you want. Duracoat surpasses all others because it maintains its elastic nature. It is also difficult to get any kind of real unique results with dipping. I would also venture that dipping it would be far more expensive than duracoat.

So you see Duracoat is a better deal all around, and you support this forum by using it ;)
What sort of deal do you have on Duracoating the frame and trigger with a carbon fiber pattern for us Forum members...? :)

Looking to possibly get a Gen4 model 27 done in the next couple months...
 

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Unfortunately to achieve a carbon fiber look that did not appear fake you would need to dip the gun. I would strongly consider a different design, as I would not sacrifice quality in the interest of carbon fiber. When I choose a finish I feel it should be stronger than factory, and dipping barely falls even. It is very easy to screw up the chemical mixtures and such when dipping and these kinds of factors only add to the faults found in that type of finish.

Dipping has it's place but I don't suggest it on your gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay, I guess I am lesser informed than I originally thought...

Please clarify...

I assumed that the process known as "Hydro-Dipping" was just that - a process for applying designs to irregular surfaces such as firearm components.

I further assumed that terms like "Dura-Coat" were simply brand names for the process stated above...

Seems like I am lost in terminology with form vs function vs quality vs durability...
 

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Dewyz1100 said:
Okay, I guess I am lesser informed than I originally thought...

Please clarify...

I assumed that the process known as "Hydro-Dipping" was just that - a process for applying designs to irregular surfaces such as firearm components.

I further assumed that terms like "Dura-Coat" were simply brand names for the process stated above...

Seems like I am lost in terminology with form vs function vs quality vs durability...
You are right about dipping. It is a coating applied by dipping the object through a piece of material in a chemical bath. The material wraps around and aheadrs to the object.

Duracoat is a paint developed specifically for firearms.
 

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GunnerGSP said:
So then what would be the difference in duracoat and cerakote finishes?
Im mobile so keep in mind this is a very very short response to a very technical question so it may require a longer reply later.

Cerakote provides a harder finish than Duracoat. There is a misconception in the world and that is that harder is always better when in fact it is the exact opposite. in the world of race cars, boats, and guns you need fledibility. I believe, it has been a long time since my work with cerakote, that cerakote is still a teflon based paint. Cerakotes chemical makeup and harder finish makes it more prone to chipping, cracking, flaking, and wear.

Now Duracoat is a two part paint that was developed by LCW based on a paint made by Sherman Williams that was developed for Naval ships. Reason being that this paint was created for the Navy with the requirement that it be tough and wear proof yet flexible to conform with the hull. That is why Duracoat conforms to many military standards.

Duracoat is able to flex, expand, and contract with the surface it is bonded with.

Now, cerakote is still a very good option. I have worked with both and i perfer Duracoat. Cerakote may have come along since I last used it, but i have seen firearms finished in it fall prey to chips and wear.

Another plus for me is control. With Duracoat i can do many custom lixes ajd chemical tweaks that Cerakote limits me from.
 

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Hydographic printing...

I happen to work at a Hydrographic printing business so I feel I should respond here...
I work at Liquid Transformations in Spokane WA.

www.liquidtransformations.com
www.dipcam.com

We do high quality Hydrographic printing and Cerakote work on just about anything.
While I've seen the Duracoat process done by quite a few individuals I'm betting I've never seen it done the right way because almost every project I've seen done usually ends up flaking off and does not hold up well at all.
The Hydro printing process is done in several stages.
The substrate is prepped almost to the point of being sterile. It then gets prepped for printing and once it's printed it's then sealed. The process is as strong as any automotive paint job.
Cerakote is a ceramic based coating that is also a two part process. It can be made semi glossy or extremely flat determined by the amount of hardener one uses.
The coating is wear resistant, scratch resistant and is self lubricating.



My little G23 was the first project we did and it's still going strong after over a thousand rounds downrange. Even on the inside of the slide above the barrel where they all rub is only burnished. it has not worn off. We also did one of my AR's...



I chose this color from a little Commander we did for a local NRA banquet auction... It sold for $3500.00
and was signed by the Wyatt's from American Guns.




I'd be very interested in seeing a good Duracoat project. Maybe we could do a trade!
Probably should show off a couple of printed projects too huh?

This one is a combo of Cerakote and Hydro Print...



Hydro print only...





 

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I've seen the finished product of the water transferring and its pretty amazing . They had gun stocks , alligator skulls , auto fenders , soda cans / bottles etc . Pretty much anything you can imagine . Don't know if I would do anything gun wise other than a stock as the above pics show it looks a little tacky IMO .
 

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RLHas said:
I happen to work at a Hydrographic printing business so I feel I should respond here...
I work at Liquid Transformations in Spokane WA.

www.liquidtransformations.com
www.dipcam.com

We do high quality Hydrographic printing and Cerakote work on just about anything.
While I've seen the Duracoat process done by quite a few individuals I'm betting I've never seen it done the right way because almost every project I've seen done usually ends up flaking off and does not hold up well at all.
The Hydro printing process is done in several stages.
The substrate is prepped almost to the point of being sterile. It then gets prepped for printing and once it's printed it's then sealed. The process is as strong as any automotive paint job.
Cerakote is a ceramic based coating that is also a two part process. It can be made semi glossy or extremely flat determined by the amount of hardener one uses.
The coating is wear resistant, scratch resistant and is self lubricating.

My little G23 was the first project we did and it's still going strong after over a thousand rounds downrange. Even on the inside of the slide above the barrel where they all rub is only burnished. it has not worn off. We also did one of my AR's...

I chose this color from a little Commander we did for a local NRA banquet auction... It sold for $3500.00
and was signed by the Wyatt's from American Guns.

I'd be very interested in seeing a good Duracoat project. Maybe we could do a trade!
Probably should show off a couple of printed projects too huh?

This one is a combo of Cerakote and Hydro Print...

Hydro print only...
You have never seen Duracoat done the right way then. Nothing against hydro my friend owns K2 Concepts, it just doesnt hold up to heavy use on a firearm. In fact if you like Cerakote then you really havent seen Duracoat done right because Duracoat is stronger. A firearm finish cannot be rated after less then several thousand rounds. There are debates for all three, but having worked with all of them i am the most confident in Duracoat for my customers.
 

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Also like i said, nothing against hydro. Its not like some dont work out, and cerakote holds a fairly high success rate. I just have to go with what has tested out best for everyone, as i have a lot of customers across the board. Im happy to say none of mine have ever come back or needed refinish, and there are a few that have seen heavy hours in Baghdad.
 
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