I think it's a too pricey also. I am curious to see it close up. I am wondering how they got rid of the pre travel using all OEM partsYeah, just saw that. I was all in until the price hit me! $159.00 for reduced take up is not going to happen for me. I'd be a buyer at $75 but 36% of the Guns cost for a trigger is a bit too much for me. The Glock trigger is not bad as it is IMO. If this was for a Sig or something then it would be worth it.
My wife won one of the Geissle SD-C flat triggers in a raffle at Larue Range Day. I have yet to install it.I would be also. I have not been impressed by any of the previous triggers from watching them fail in competition. I would never put one in a carry gun, but if Travis is putting his reputation on it, it's likely squared away.
I don't run Geissles either for the cost reason. Guess I'm just weird when it comes to triggers. If it gets the job done (Spikes MILSPEC Boron trigger and Factory Glock trigger) then it's good enough for me.
I don't think that would work. The mag is very close to that part of the trigger bar, not enough room. Mr. Haley says they use all Glock factory parts. The only way I can think of pulling this off using factory parts and not defeating any safeties is to somehow shorten the trigger bar between the trigger and the nub on the trigger bar that engages the firing pin stop/plunger, and then taking a small amount of material off the trigger safety where it touches the frame inside the trigger guard. I really want to see one up close.I think you can add a jentra Overtravel Stop up front and do the same thing. Has anyone tried this? Would anyone like to try this? I have a few here and will send them out (free) for some reviews.
Edwin
Must have a heavier firing pin spring?That last "half-inch of travel" is the distance the cruxiform travels off the drop safety as I see it.
I suppose you could shorten that but in my eyes it's going to reduce the rearward travel of the firing pin, reducing the primer stike energy.
Well, my opinion is you pulled the trigger not the trigger pulled its self so I just couldn't see that being an issue at all. But I'm not the law so,,,,,,,I wonder how this trigger would hold up in court, if i were to use it on my ccw gun, and shoot someone if my life were in danger.
I've mentioned this in other threads but try using a Gen3 bar in the Gen4. By doing so you lose that stupid bump on the Gen4 bar and that added bend where the spring connects. Not sure why Glock changed those things but it wasn't necessarily for the better. If you have a comparable model you could temporarily swap one into your Gen4 to try it out. When I first did it, I swapped a Gen3 27 bar into a Gen4 19 as a test. I think you will like the results.any of you guys have gen 4's and have experience with prev. gen's and there trigger pull and pre-travel ??
My gen 4 pre-travle is disgusting and the only connector that is worth a **** in it is a GLOCK OE, I had a ghoast in it and a freind of mine (John the Glock doc) put a GLOCK 3.5 in it and it was like night and day.........
lighter crisper smoother at release....
the only thing we could figure is that they changed the trigger block's size due to changing the frame size and that messed with the angle of the connector.
the gen 4 just sucks in the trigger dept. compared to all my other GLOCK's