Gun Maintenance

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by BrickBack, Mar 4, 2012.

  1. BrickBack

    BrickBack New Member

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    Any preferences on cleaning solvents and oils.
     
  2. SHOOTER13

    SHOOTER13 RETIRED MODERATOR Sponsor Lifetime Supporting Member

    Welcome to the Glock Forum BrickBack !!

    I use Brekfree CLP among other things...
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2012

  3. G-23

    G-23 Premium Member

    You can use any stuff that was designed for use on guns. Whatever your choice will work just fine.

    Follow the manufactures instructions.
     
  4. G-23

    G-23 Premium Member

    BTW, What is the difference between a "BrickBack" and a "Brickbat"?
     
  5. BrickBack

    BrickBack New Member

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    Thanks for the info. I've been using Gunslick lately, it seems to do the job.
     
  6. Hamster

    Hamster New Member

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    G-23 is correct but, I would suggest keeping aerosol cleaners such as "Gun Scrubber" away from any and all non-metal parts. Many years ago, I accidently discovered that it will fuse plastic parts to each other.
     
  7. CLP and nothing else, imo. For the external stuff i like to strip the slide and reciever once or twice a year (thats all i clean mine) and wash them with soap and warm water really well. Then soak and clean all internals with clp. Then reassemble with some very livht clp on moving parts. The slide gets a VERY light wipe down with clp on a rag, reciever gets nothing.
     
  8. voyager4520

    voyager4520 New Member

    -Hoppe's #9 bore solvent for bore cleaning.
    -Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner for cleaning everything else, including plastic. Any metal parts I clean with this, I then wipe down with Ballistol and wipe dry for corrosion protection.
    -Ballistol for lubrication and corrosion protection.
     
  9. Happysniper1

    Happysniper1 New Member

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    For a long time, I would use Hoppe's #9 (and scrub and scrub and scrub) then flush it out with Rusty Duck (can't find it anymore, now use Winchester Break Free Powder Blast aerosol), let it air-dry, then lube and reassemble.

    Nowadays I use a different cleaning method that avoids all the scrubbing, but costs money to set up (ultrasonics).
     
  10. bustedknee

    bustedknee New Member

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    I used to use moonshine for cleaning and bear grease for lubrication.

    I kept both in Mason jars on my workbench.

    Sometimes, I'd take a sip of the 'shine... or two... or 3. Since I had the lid off.

    After a few sips one night I got the jars mixed up.
    It didn't hurt my Glock my I had to lick the dog's butt to get the taste out of my mouth. :D
     
  11. draconian

    draconian Premium Member

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    SATX
    Nice, that made me chuckle :)
     
  12. Dont use hoppes
     
  13. BrickBack

    BrickBack New Member

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    I think I might try the moonshine trick as well :-D
     
  14. Miay0187

    Miay0187 New Member

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    Why wouldn't you use hoppes??
     
  15. voyager4520

    voyager4520 New Member

    I've been using Hoppe's #9 for 3 years on my Glocks and I've never had a problem. I only use it on the bore of the barrel, and very rarely on the breech face and other parts of the slide. After using it, I wipe the piece that I cleaned dry, soak the piece in Ballistol oil, then wipe dry again.

    I know you're not supposed to use it on nickel plated pieces because Hoppe's #9 contains ammonia which will eat away at the copper undercoat and undermine the nickel plating. Glocks have several nickel plated components: the frame rails of the newest Glocks, the locking blocks, trigger bars, connectors, ejectors, firing pins, firing pin safeties, and extractor depressor plungers. All of which have a copper undercoat.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2012
  16. There is a whole thread I have on it if you do a search. Very informative.