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Discussion Starter #1
I have a Glock 27 Gen 4. Have been having issues since it was new with occasional FTF. I originally thought it was cheap target ammo, as it wasn't doing it with Remington ultimate defense ammo. It seems to be about once in first 100 rounds at the range, then more often after 150 rounds. It has failed to fire with tulammo, Winchester target FMJ both 160 and 180 grain, CCI Brass, Remington ultimate defense, starfire, Winchester SXT, and the bass pro brand made by sellier and belloit. And perfecta too. It does click when trigger pressed, if I pull slide back enough for trigger reset it will then fire. Have tried a tungsten guide rod and ghost edge trigger connector with same results. Any suggestions would be appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #2
It shows I have 1 reply, but I can't see reply. If you replied, sorry, can't see it. Maybe privacy settings?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I viewed it, but didn't reply. That may be what you saw. I do not have an answer but I am sure Bob will be around shortly and can assist.
Thank you. It showed one view, and one reply. Probably just a glitch. Just wanted to make sure if the answer to my prayers was out there I was able to read it. This is my second glock. My first was a 23 Gen 2 I think. Serial started with AKT. Never should have sold it. Probably 25000 rds and no malfunctions of any kind. Now this. Was about to sell this and get a S&W M&P 40C lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am sure there is a simple fix. It's a Glock, it can't be that difficult to fix :)
I should have sent it in while under warranty. I have just sent other guns (not glocks) in before and gotten them back 3 weeks later saying there was nothing wrong. Then had same problem
 

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Failure to fire? Or failure to feed? Did you plunk test the ammo you used in the chamber? 99% of all gun issues are shooter induced. Put it all back to stock and hold your gun like this. Smaller Glocks are more sensitive to grip.

 

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Have been having issues since it was new with occasional FTF.

It has failed to fire...
Firearm induced (not ammo related) failure to fire is caused by a blockage of the firing pin, a defective firing pin, or a weak firing pin spring.

In a new firearm, such a blockage can be a deformed firing pin channel liner, a defective firing pin, or contamination in the firing pin channel.

It's also possible that the firing pin safety or the firing pin safety cut on the firing pin is 'out of spec'. If this is the issue, the safety and firing pin safety cut on the firing pin should show excessive wear.

I suggest that you detail strip the slide, disassemble the firing pin assembly, and thoroughly clean all of the parts. Thoroughly clean the firing pin channel with a mild solvent (odorless mineral spirits) and Q-tips.



Inspect the parts for damage and wear. (Replace any damaged or defective parts.)

To test for firing pin fit and channel obstructions, install the firing pin only (not the assembly, just the firing pin) in the completely stripped slide and slowly move the firing pin lug back and forth from the rear of the slide to its fully forward position. It should move absolutely freely with no 'gritty' feel.

IMPORTANT: When fully forward, the tip of the firing pin should protrude through the breech face about the thickness of a 9mm case rim (0.050").

If all is well, then reassemble and lubricate the slide assembly as per the instructions here... https://us.glock.com/documents/gun_maintenance.pdf.

Do NOT lubricate the firing pin with 'a drop of oil'. Excessive oil in the firing pin channel 'collects' powder residue and will obstruct the firing pin during operation.

Push the firing pin lug fully to the rear. The spring should be extremely 'stiff'. (Think of trying to lift a 5 lb bag of sugar with just the firing pin lug).

Without depressing the firing pin safety, push the firing pin lug fully forward. The tip of the firing pin should be 'blocked' and stop short of the breech face. Now, depress the firing pin safety and push the lug fully forward. The tip of the firing pin should penetrate the breech face about 0.050" (as described above). Again, the firing pin should move absolutely freely with no 'gritty' feel.

Try the above and let us know what happens. (There are some other issues that can cause pistol induced FTFs, but they are rare. We can address those if the above efforts don't fix the problem.)

Best regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Failure to fire? Or failure to feed? Did you plunk test the ammo you used in the chamber? 99% of all gun issues are shooter induced. Put it all back to stock and hold your gun like this. Smaller Glocks are more sensitive to grip.

It is a fail to fire, I forgot to mention there is a light strike on primer when this happens. On multiple types of ammo. Happened when brand new. Originally thought it was ammo
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Firearm caused (not ammo related) failure to fire is caused by a blockage of the firing pin, a defective firing pin, or a weak firing pin spring.

In a new firearm, such a blockage can be a deformed firing pin channel liner, a defective firing pin, or contamination in the firing pin channel.

It's also possible that the firing pin safety or the firing pin safety cut on the firing pin is 'out of spec'. If this is the issue, the safety and firing pin safety cut on the firing pin should show excessive wear.

I suggest that you detail strip the slide, disassemble the firing pin assembly, and thoroughly clean all of the parts. Thoroughly clean the firing pin channel with a mild solvent (odorless mineral spirits) and Q-tips.



Inspect the parts for damaged and wear. (Replace any damaged or defective parts.)

To test for firing pin fit and channel obstructions, install the firing pin only (not the assembly, just the firing pin) in the completely stripped slide and slowly move the firing pin lug back and forth from the rear of the slide to its fully forward position. It should move absolutely freely with no 'gritty' feel.

IMPORTANT: When fully forward, the tip of the firing pin should protrude through the breech face about the thickness of a 9mm case rim (0.050").

If all is well, then reassemble and lubricate the slide assembly as per the instructions here... https://us.glock.com/documents/gun_maintenance.pdf.

Do NOT lubricate the firing pin with 'a drop of oil'. Excessive oil in the firing pin channel 'collects' powder residue and will obstruct the firing pin during operation.

Push the firing pin lug fully to the rear. The spring should be extremely 'stiff'. (Think of trying to lift a 5 lb bag of sugar with just the firing pin lug).

Without depressing the firing pin safety, push the firing pin lug fully forward. The tip of the firing pin should be 'blocked' and stop short of the breech face. Now, depress the firing pin safety and push the lug fully forward. The tip of the firing pin should penetrate the breech face about 0.050" (as described above). Again, the firing pin should move absolutely freely with no 'gritty' feel.

Try the above and let us know what happens. (There are some other issues that can cause pistol induced FTFs, but they are rare. We can address those if the above efforts don't fix the problem.)

Best regards,

Bob
Will do today, and check next time I can get to gun club. Thank you all for your time
 

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It is a FTF, I forgot to mention there is a light strike on primer when this happens. On multiple types of ammo. Happened when brand new. Originally thought it was ammo
Light primer strikes with a 'centered' dimple are typical with the issues addressed in post #8. Above center dimples are 'out of battery' primer strikes caused by a dirty and/or under-lubricated pistol, a 'binding' slide, or a weak recoil spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Light primer strikes with a 'centered' dimple are typical with the issues addressed in post #8... 'above center' dimples are 'out of battery' primer strikes caused by a dirty and/or under-lubricated pistol, a 'binding' slide, or a weak recoil spring assembly.
If it is dirty, it is getting dirty within 100 rounds. Never had this problem with a glock before. And have tried 3 different RSA.
 

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If it is dirty, it is getting dirty within 100 rounds. Never had this problem with a glock before. And have tried 3 different RCA.
Nope... 100 rounds won't do it.

Just for 'grins and giggles', once upon a time, I pushed my G17.4 to see how many rounds without cleaning it would take to cause issues... over 5000 (with my pistol and handloads).

And, 3 RSAs say that's not the problem.

Back to post #8.

Let us know.

Best regards,

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Firearm induced (not ammo related) failure to fire is caused by a blockage of the firing pin, a defective firing pin, or a weak firing pin spring.

In a new firearm, such a blockage can be a deformed firing pin channel liner, a defective firing pin, or contamination in the firing pin channel.

It's also possible that the firing pin safety or the firing pin safety cut on the firing pin is 'out of spec'. If this is the issue, the safety and firing pin safety cut on the firing pin should show excessive wear.

I suggest that you detail strip the slide, disassemble the firing pin assembly, and thoroughly clean all of the parts. Thoroughly clean the firing pin channel with a mild solvent (odorless mineral spirits) and Q-tips.



Inspect the parts for damage and wear. (Replace any damaged or defective parts.)

To test for firing pin fit and channel obstructions, install the firing pin only (not the assembly, just the firing pin) in the completely stripped slide and slowly move the firing pin lug back and forth from the rear of the slide to its fully forward position. It should move absolutely freely with no 'gritty' feel.

IMPORTANT: When fully forward, the tip of the firing pin should protrude through the breech face about the thickness of a 9mm case rim (0.050").

If all is well, then reassemble and lubricate the slide assembly as per the instructions here... https://us.glock.com/documents/gun_maintenance.pdf.

Do NOT lubricate the firing pin with 'a drop of oil'. Excessive oil in the firing pin channel 'collects' powder residue and will obstruct the firing pin during operation.

Push the firing pin lug fully to the rear. The spring should be extremely 'stiff'. (Think of trying to lift a 5 lb bag of sugar with just the firing pin lug).

Without depressing the firing pin safety, push the firing pin lug fully forward. The tip of the firing pin should be 'blocked' and stop short of the breech face. Now, depress the firing pin safety and push the lug fully forward. The tip of the firing pin should penetrate the breech face about 0.050" (as described above). Again, the firing pin should move absolutely freely with no 'gritty' feel.

Try the above and let us know what happens. (There are some other issues that can cause pistol induced FTFs, but they are rare. We can address those if the above efforts don't fix the problem.)

Best regards,

Bob
Sorry it took so long to get back with you. There was a very tiny piece of plastic shaving in firing pin channel. I ran 125 rounds at the gun club of cheapest crappiest loose mixed ammo I could find lying around. No malfunctions. Same with another 100 rds of Winchester. Thank you for all your knowledge and help
 

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did you noticed were the plastic shavings are from ? from the liner or the firing pin springs cups, if is from the later replace those.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
did you noticed were the plastic shavings are from ? from the liner or the firing pin springs cups, if is from the later replace those.
I couldn't find where it was from. When I took it to LGS which has an in house Gunsmith when it was new to get sights installed the guy at the counter noticed I bought a slide plate with a cross on it. He installed it for me while waiting for gunsmith to install my new trijicons. I'm assuming this is when it happened. I had this done before ever shooting the pistol
 
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