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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let me start by saying that I know I bought the wrong aftermarket slide. It was a good deal, and now I know why. Haha. I bought a Suarez milled RMR cut slide for my Glock 19 Gen 3 and if I pin the trigger after a shot, it almost never goes back into battery, which makes sense, but sometimes when I shoot correctly and don't pin the trigger it still doesn't go back into battery. I've had two other people shoot it to make sure it wasn't a grip issue (one of the people was the class instructor so I hope his grip was good. Haha.).

I contacted Suarez and here is the reply I got:
"first thing i would check is your connector tension, if there is too much tension it will restrict slide movement"
That was the total answer. I don't know what to do with that info. How do I check the "connector tension"? Do I buy a new connector? Is that an easy thing to install? This is for a carry gun, so the only thing I was going to do was get a slide and keep all factory internals. I didn't want to mess with the factory internals and make the gun unreliable, but here we are anyway.
I have taken 2 handgun classes and put thousands of rounds at the range without a problem with this gun, so I know it's the new slide that's the problem. My eyesight is failing me, so I wanted to upgrade to a RDS, but now my gun is failing me. Haha.

Any advice you can give me would be great!
Thank you so much!
jerdog3
 

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If it were me I would use a calipers to take some measurements of your OEM slide rail slots from front to back versus your new Suarez slide front to back,I suspect you will discover differences.

It sounds from your description you are experiencing failure to return to battery, if it wasn't for the new slide I might suspect a weak recoil spring assembly

To me if your connector bend angle is to far in or out you will have a dead trigger or not consistent functioning trigger,I will add a video on adjusting you connector ,it could also be the height of the OEM vertical extension/aka sharks fin but only in extremes and I rather doubt it but I would take some slide measurements first.




and this for more education on Glock connectors and it's geometry




 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If it were me I would use a calipers to take some measurements of your OEM slide rail slots from front to back versus your new Suarez slide front to back,I suspect you will discover differences.

It sounds from your description you are experiencing failure to return to battery, if it wasn't for the new slide I might suspect a weak recoil spring assembly

To me if your connector bend angle is to far in or out you will have a dead trigger or not consistent functioning trigger,I will add a video on adjusting you connector ,it could also be the height of the OEM vertical extension/aka sharks fin but only in extremes and I rather doubt it but I would take some slide measurements first.




and this for more education on Glock connectors and it's geometry




Thank you for that great info! I'm sorry it took me so long to reply, but life got in the way. I plan on winning the lottery soon so I'll have much more free time in the future. Haha.

If it is my conector, and since I need to replace some parts anyway, if I get a new trigger package, might that fix the problem if it is the connector, or are you thinking that because of the new slide, the connector shouldn't be exact to the OEM specs? I asked the Suarez head tech guy the same question and he just referred me to the same video you gave me, so I'm clearly not getting any advice or help from him.

Thanks so much!

jerdog3
 

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Thank you for that great info! I'm sorry it took me so long to reply, but life got in the way. I plan on winning the lottery soon so I'll have much more free time in the future. Haha.

If it is my conector, and since I need to replace some parts anyway, if I get a new trigger package, might that fix the problem if it is the connector, or are you thinking that because of the new slide, the connector shouldn't be exact to the OEM specs? I asked the Suarez head tech guy the same question and he just referred me to the same video you gave me, so I'm clearly not getting any advice or help from him.

Thanks so much!

jerdog3
From personal experience I recommend a factory connector. Unlike aftermarket the factory connectors are true drop in and usually don’t need adjustments.
 

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From personal experience I recommend a factory connector. Unlike aftermarket the factory connectors are true drop in and usually don’t need adjustments.
Agree with Danzig but I actually suspect it may have more to do with the slide, if your Suarez slide has been ceracoated or duracoated there is the possibility of some build up in the slide rail slots or on the bottom of the slide in the area where the connector rides causing your problem.
If one removes the connector with a punch instead of prying from the underneath of the trigger mechanism housing this lessons the risk of changing the bend angle of the connector.



This video shows the use of a micro screw driver set you can obtain at most any dollar store,I remove the flat head and turn it into a punch rather than a flat head to remove connectors from the trigger mechanism housing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Agree with Danzig but I actually suspect it may have more to do with the slide, if your Suarez slide has been caracoated or duracoated there is the possibility of some build up in the slide rail slots or on the bottom of the slide in the area where the connector rides causing your problem.
If one removes the connector with a punch instead of prying from the underneath of the trigger mechanism housing this lessons the risk of changing the bend angle of the connector.



This video shows the use of a micro screw driver set you can obtain at most any dollar store,I remove the flat head and turn it into a punch rather than a flat head to remove connectors from the trigger mechanism housing.
Great info! I don't know what the freaking problem is with my gun not going back into battery. It will be fine for a few shots, or even a magazine (10 rounds. I'm in California), but then it stops going forward just short of going into battery. I just push it a fraction of an inch with my thumb, and it's good to go.
I don't know exactly how to "polish" the slide, but I'll try that, and great video on removing the connector. I've never removed it, so that will be a useful video. I'll order a new Glock OEM connector and see if that helps.

Thanks!
jerdog3
 

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Great info! I don't know what the freaking problem is with my gun not going back into battery. It will be fine for a few shots, or even a magazine (10 rounds. I'm in California), but then it stops going forward just short of going into battery. I just push it a fraction of an inch with my thumb, and it's good to go.
I don't know exactly how to "polish" the slide, but I'll try that, and great video on removing the connector. I've never removed it, so that will be a useful video. I'll order a new Glock OEM connector and see if that helps.

Thanks!
jerdog3
From your description it sounds as if your not going into battery fully I tend to think it is more of a final polish of your front locking block slide rail,I check for level on a flat hard surface and if it's out I give the front and back rails minus any trigger components on a hone or stone, if you lack those one could substitute 400 to 600 sand paper.

Then once they are level I polish to a mirror shine finish with semi chrome or flitz polishing compound,I think if you do those things you will find it returns to full battery, with out a little push from your thumb.

To polish inside the slide rails use 400 to 600 grit sand paper folded on the edge of a credit card and full length back and fourth along the entire rail slots and the clean out and try fit on frame, better to repeat often and check for fit than tale too much.

As to replacement connector I might suggest what is referred to as the Glock dot connector because it is marked with a dot stamped on the connector.
It was brought out by Glock for the Gen 4 and is also used in the Gen 5,it will fit any generation Glock with exception of the G 42,43 or 43 X and gives roughly 5 lb. pull,I find it gives me hat I want in the way of trigger feel, solid wall and a more crisp break.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Polish inside the slide rail use 400 to 600 grit sand paper filed on thr edge of a credit card and full length back and fourth along the entire rail slots and the clean out and try fit on frame, better to repeat often and check for fit than tale too much.
SJ 40, thank you! I don't know if that is the problem, but thank you for trying to help. I will give anything a try because I can't afford to just eat the cost of this slide and buy a new one. The lead tech at Suarez International was not only less helpful, but a total jerk about it. But after doing some research, I shouldn't be surprised that a guy who got arrested for ripping off his LEO department, and even got his wife arrested for it too, would hier less than professional crew.
Thanks again!
jerdog3
 

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SJ 40, thank you! I don't know if that is the problem, but thank you for trying to help. I will give anything a try because I can't afford to just eat the cost of this slide and buy a new one. The lead tech at Suarez International was not only less helpful, but a total jerk about it. But after doing some research, I shouldn't be surprised that a guy who got arrested for ripping off his LEO department, and even got his wife arrested for it too, would hier less than professional crew.
Thanks again!
jerdog3
One way to discover if it is or isn't the problem is get out your calipers and measure along the slide rail slots in many places for each slide rail slot and then your front locking block slide rail and rear slide rails and the numbers will tell you if it's the problem or not
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One way to discover if it is or isn't the problem is get out your calipers and measure along the slide rail slots in many places for each slide rail slot and then your front locking block slide rail and rear slide rails and the numbers will tell you if it's the problem or not
I will look into buying some calipers. I'm kinda an apartment dweller with more Barbie dolls than tools (they are my daughters. The tools. The Barbie dolls are mine. Haha).
But like I said, I don't know what is wrong, and why it stops just before going back into battery. It's like the smallest amount of pressure will get it past, or over, whatever is stopping it. Which is amazing that the force of the recipericating slide isn't enough. But it seems so similar to when I pin the trigger (I know now not to do that anymore), and the slide stops before going back into battery, and then just releasing the trigger allows it to go back into battery. It seems just like that, but it happens when I'm not pinning the trigger.
But again, since I don't know what is wrong, I will take any advice I can get and I really do appreciate you taking the time to help me out with this.
 

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I will look into buying some calipers. I'm kinda an apartment dweller with more Barbie dolls than tools (they are my daughters. The tools. The Barbie dolls are mine. Haha).
But like I said, I don't know what is wrong, and why it stops just before going back into battery. It's like the smallest amount of pressure will get it past, or over, whatever is stopping it. Which is amazing that the force of the recipericating slide isn't enough. But it seems so similar to when I pin the trigger (I know now not to do that anymore), and the slide stops before going back into battery, and then just releasing the trigger allows it to go back into battery. It seems just like that, but it happens when I'm not pinning the trigger.
But again, since I don't know what is wrong, I will take any advice I can get and I really do appreciate you taking the time to help me out with this.
You can get calipers from Harbor freight, they are not the best but have a large read out display and I find them as accurate as Frankfort Arsenal digital calipers,you will use them for many gun related projects.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You can get calipers from Harbor freight, they are not the best but have a large read out display and I find them as accurate as Frankfort Arsenal digital calipers,you will use them for many gun related projects.
I'll pick some up since they are always sending out coupons! Thank you!
 
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