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Anyone have any tips or suggestions for getting started reloading my own ammo? Any reading material or starter kits? I currently shoot only .40 but well soon like to shoot 9mm, 357sig, and .45 also...
getting started?
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Try the search, I know there's a good thread going on the topic just not sure of the link sorry..
I know Happysniper has a ton of info on the subject but I havent seen him around in a while come to think of it..
I know Happysniper has a ton of info on the subject but I havent seen him around in a while come to think of it..
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Ok....and maybe he'll pop up soon lol
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I AM HERE.....
Whaddayawannna know?
Good reference books to start with? Hmmm.....here's some of what I started with (reading in the theoretical side):
1. Speer Reloading Manual
2. Richard Lee's "Modern Reloading"
3. Barnes Reloading Manual
4. Principles of Reloading Metallic Cartridge Ammunition (available from NRA store)
5. Working Up Your Load (available from NRA store)
Hope that helps!
Whaddayawannna know?
Good reference books to start with? Hmmm.....here's some of what I started with (reading in the theoretical side):
1. Speer Reloading Manual
2. Richard Lee's "Modern Reloading"
3. Barnes Reloading Manual
4. Principles of Reloading Metallic Cartridge Ammunition (available from NRA store)
5. Working Up Your Load (available from NRA store)
Hope that helps!
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By the way, RCBS starter kits come with a complete base kit (less a number of items, listed below) as well as the most current Speer Reloading Manual.
Most "kits" will come with the reloading press, a powder dispenser, a powder scale of some sort (usually balance-beam), case trays, primer tray and priming tool (to insert primers). They will sometimes have goodies specific to that brand and model (such as tool plates for Dillon progressives, or die bushings for Hornady Lock-n-Load, etc).
In all cases, they will usually not include:
1. the dies specific for each caliber (a decapping die to pop out the spent primers and in many case also resizes the case to proper diameter; an expander die to expand the case mouth to allow insertion of the bullet; and a seater and crimper die to seat the bullet and press the case mouth [i.e., crimp] against the bullet)
2. shell holders....these are what hold the brass cases while they are manipulated in the press.
3. bullet chronograph....for testing the muzzle velocities of your loads (to make sure you are not loading beyond the specified pressure range for that caliber).
4. case prep center which is an all-in-one electrical device that simplifies the chamfering and bevelling of cases, and scriubbing the primer pockets clean, and removing military crimps on milsurp brass, etc.
In any case, one should not look at reloading as simply a way to make cheaper ammo....in the long run, it is cheap only because you do not pay yourself an hourly rate to do the reloading (as you would if you bought factory-made ammo, the labor is built into the retail price).
Reloading is a hobby in and of itself, and anyone who cannot devote several hours at a time of their free time to all the steps in the reloading process should actually just buy factory ammo and spend their time enjoying their children (who grow up to quickly).
BUT having decided on making the CapEx (Capital Expenditure) to invest in the equipment and tools, as well as having decided to tke the plunge and spend hours in the reloading process, I will be more that willing to share what I know to anyone who will fit those two conditions.
As a final note, I reload .40S&W for non-Glock pistols, and I understand there is some concern over the bulge imparted to the case from the chamber of a standard Glock .40S&W barrel, but you may be better off asking someone who reloads for this gun and caliber. They would have more valid info and advice than I would for that caliber.
Cheers!
Most "kits" will come with the reloading press, a powder dispenser, a powder scale of some sort (usually balance-beam), case trays, primer tray and priming tool (to insert primers). They will sometimes have goodies specific to that brand and model (such as tool plates for Dillon progressives, or die bushings for Hornady Lock-n-Load, etc).
In all cases, they will usually not include:
1. the dies specific for each caliber (a decapping die to pop out the spent primers and in many case also resizes the case to proper diameter; an expander die to expand the case mouth to allow insertion of the bullet; and a seater and crimper die to seat the bullet and press the case mouth [i.e., crimp] against the bullet)
2. shell holders....these are what hold the brass cases while they are manipulated in the press.
3. bullet chronograph....for testing the muzzle velocities of your loads (to make sure you are not loading beyond the specified pressure range for that caliber).
4. case prep center which is an all-in-one electrical device that simplifies the chamfering and bevelling of cases, and scriubbing the primer pockets clean, and removing military crimps on milsurp brass, etc.
In any case, one should not look at reloading as simply a way to make cheaper ammo....in the long run, it is cheap only because you do not pay yourself an hourly rate to do the reloading (as you would if you bought factory-made ammo, the labor is built into the retail price).
Reloading is a hobby in and of itself, and anyone who cannot devote several hours at a time of their free time to all the steps in the reloading process should actually just buy factory ammo and spend their time enjoying their children (who grow up to quickly).
BUT having decided on making the CapEx (Capital Expenditure) to invest in the equipment and tools, as well as having decided to tke the plunge and spend hours in the reloading process, I will be more that willing to share what I know to anyone who will fit those two conditions.
As a final note, I reload .40S&W for non-Glock pistols, and I understand there is some concern over the bulge imparted to the case from the chamber of a standard Glock .40S&W barrel, but you may be better off asking someone who reloads for this gun and caliber. They would have more valid info and advice than I would for that caliber.
Cheers!
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Very good info....thank you!!!!
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Wat kind of initial cost would I be looking at and how much time are you talking about having to be devoted? Although it would be fun just as a hobby the main reason is for cheaper ammo...I thought it would be a good idea bc I also want to get into shooting sports with my glocks
Dillon RL 550b w/ caliber conversion - $470trigger252 said:
Powder scale - $70
Case media seperator - $50
Corn cob media - $16
Vibratory cleaner - $150
1,000 heads - $116
5,000 primers - $26
1,000 brass (used) - $80
8lbs powder - $105
Total approx $1,083 plus shipping
This is approximates and is for .40 s&w, 9mm will be slightly cheaper for bullets/brass.
Will pay for itself after first 4,000 loads or so. A little steep in beginning, but if you plan on competing it'll pay off in long run.
If competing, plan on about 10 - 12,000 rounds per year for practice and competitions (more depending on how much you practice)
This'll help ya out with rough estimates...
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Thanks, I already have the scale, media, and the vibrating cleaner (used to reload shotgun shells) so that's a little money savedzipper046 said:
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