Any part of this WILL kill the Glock warranty.
Gen 3 G17 pins and disassembling
OK, around the same thoughts of my other thread about the slide closing upon mag changes. After doing some research for a disassemble, I have 2 pins and what looks like where a third, smaller one should be above the trigger pin. It looks like a casting mark on the polymer. I want to remove the slide release and springs for inspection/adjustment. I am thinking about a little more tension on the spring to make the slide close easier/with less force during a mag change. I could probably bevel the notch on the slide easier and achieve the same result, but you only get one chance at removing just enough metal and I'm sure springs are cheaper than slides. I am not an armorer by any means, but I am very, very mechanically oriented. I asked for my earlier thread to be locked as it was getting out of hand. If the adms. want me to continue my previous thread with this question, that's fine with me.....
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Actually, the form says to remove 'non-standard' parts before shipping. If I change the slide release spring and have a problem with something in the future, all I have to do is swap the spring back. I have been with Toyota since 1991-92. I know the whole spiel about voiding warranties and such, car manufacturers, gun manufacturers, all companies pretty much have the same consumer/owner warnings with regards to modifications to products and warranties......which is another reason why I am NOT wanting to bevel the slide notch. But, thanks for the warning.
I think this is a very bad idea. NEVER use the SLIDE STOP to place the slide into battery/release the slide. If your slide returns to battery after seating a new loaded mag into the magwell, CONGRATS!!! Now that's one less step you have to perform to get back into the gun fight.
I'm not talking abiut springs, i'm talking about the beveling
Now this is a mixed message..... Congrats if it does, but don't do anything to ensure that it does.?????I think this is a very bad idea. NEVER use the SLIDE STOP to place the slide into battery/release the slide. If your slide returns to battery after seating a new loaded mag into the magwell, CONGRATS!!! Now that's one less step you have to perform to get back into the gun fight.
Sorry to say but that is about as clear as mud, about how amny pins you have in the frame. You either have a two pin or, three pin frame. We count the total pins and by name they are:OK, around the same thoughts of my other thread about the slide closing upon mag changes. After doing some research for a disassemble, I have 2 pins and what looks like where a third, smaller one should be above the trigger pin. It looks like a casting mark on the polymer. I want to remove the slide release and springs for inspection/adjustment. I am thinking about a little more tension on the spring to make the slide close easier/with less force during a mag change. I could probably bevel the notch on the slide easier and achieve the same result, but you only get one chance at removing just enough metal and I'm sure springs are cheaper than slides. I am not an armorer by any means, but I am very, very mechanically oriented. I asked for my earlier thread to be locked as it was getting out of hand. If the adms. want me to continue my previous thread with this question, that's fine with me.....
Locking block pin
Trigger pin
Trigger housing pin
All Glocks have two pins; Trigger pin & trigger housing pin.
Newer Glocks also have a Locking block pin added above the trigger pin.
I strongly suggest you do not remove any of these pins as from your post I get afeeling that you do not understand springs and their construction. Should you remove and bend any of them they will be ruined.
Pins and parts are removed and replaced in a certain order. Without following the correct procedures you may very well break aprts or render them useless and you'll need replacements, effectively putting your firearm out of commission.
You idea of re-beveling the notch in the slide is one of a strong willed man. It will take that, as the slide has a Tennifer finish. It of course can be accomplished and you'll see that you have screwed the pooch and very possibly render your slide worthless.
The Slide Stop Lever works the way it does because of the amount of weight in the metal that is affected by the intertia. It has to work correctly as it performs it's job with the magazine follower or the whloe system fails.
I strongly suggest you take your new weapon to a certified Glock Armorer at your earliess convience and have them go over it. We have functional test we can run to determine if your firearm is operating as designed.
The early Gen3 9mm models didn't have a locking block pin, but they did have a cast mark in the frame where the hole for the locking block pin would be located.
I wouldn't modify the slide. Modifying the slide stop spring could cause the slide to lock back with rounds still in the magazine. If I were going to modify anything to accomplish what you want to, I'd smooth out and polish the part of the slide stop that locks into the slide. With use that part of the slide stop can become pretty rough. I wouldn't change any surface angles, only smooth it over and polish it. If it fails to lock the slide back on the last round because of the modification, it's a simple matter to just buy a new slide stop.
I wouldn't modify the slide. Modifying the slide stop spring could cause the slide to lock back with rounds still in the magazine. If I were going to modify anything to accomplish what you want to, I'd smooth out and polish the part of the slide stop that locks into the slide. With use that part of the slide stop can become pretty rough. I wouldn't change any surface angles, only smooth it over and polish it. If it fails to lock the slide back on the last round because of the modification, it's a simple matter to just buy a new slide stop.
This is the reply that I was looking for. I want to add tension to the spring, making it pull down on the stop lever a little harder. If I get too much tension, it should either cause the slide to not lock open on last round or close when I drop the mag. Either way, a new spring will get me back where I started easily and cheaply. The way the slide/stop fits together, I don't think that smoothing and polishing will help much. So does the locking block just pull out, just as it would if you had just removed the pin that isn't there?The early Gen3 9mm models didn't have a locking block pin, but they did have a cast mark in the frame where the hole for the locking block pin would be located.
I wouldn't modify the slide. Modifying the slide stop spring could cause the slide to lock back with rounds still in the magazine. If I were going to modify anything to accomplish what you want to, I'd smooth out and polish the part of the slide stop that locks into the slide. With use that part of the slide stop can become pretty rough. I wouldn't change any surface angles, only smooth it over and polish it. If it fails to lock the slide back on the last round because of the modification, it's a simple matter to just buy a new slide stop.
Moved to the correct sub forum: Gunsmithing
Yes. Here's some info on detail stripping, since yours doesn't have a locking block pin you don't need to worry about the parts that discuss it. If you get a spare slide stop, it has to be the two-pin version, Glock manufacturer part number 399 for the standard version or 7489 for extended.So does the locking block just pull out, just as it would if you had just removed the pin that isn't there?
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oV0wDDFV0NY[/ame]
On the following page are some Glock Armorer's Manuals, just scroll down to the "G" section. I learned from the Update Manual and 2009 Manual. The 2009 Manual has a few pages missing, but that info can be found in the Update Manual as well.
http://stevespages.com/page7b.htm
Why does this whole thing sound like a train wreck in the making?
Because it is. Because myself and an armorer basically told him this was an awful idea and yet it lives on.Why does this whole thing sound like a train wreck in the making?
Oh wait this is the one that "slammed a mag home" and the slide released itself.
It's apparent that the OP has his own agenda despite being given sound advise. Let the train wreck happen.
It's apparent that the OP has his own agenda despite being given sound advise. Let the train wreck happen.
Can someone elaborate on this?Argyle_Armoring said:NEVER use the SLIDE STOP to place the slide into battery/release the slide..
Never chamber the next round with the slide stop after loading a new mag? If that's correct... Why?
Because its a slide STOP, not a slide RELEASE. Slingshot the slide into battery. Some wrecks just cant be avoided!!
Because none of you guys know me. For the most part, you, as a whole, are giving answers that should be given. "Don't do this, unsafe weapon, etc....." I respect that. It's the same thing I tell people about their car when I am asked about some modifications that is the least bit dubious. All of that is fine, but if I am ONLY adding tension to the slide stop spring, then how does that make the weapon unsafe, or cause a 'train wreck'? At worst, I add too much tension and the mag spring can't overcome the slide stop spring and the hold open on last shot doesn't work. Then I put a new slide stop spring in and I'm back to square one.Why does this whole thing sound like a train wreck in the making?
I read this entire thread and I'm still not sure why you feel the need to increase tension on the slide stop spring. Could you explain? I'm a little slow.
I'm willing to wager that increasing the tension on the spring will not make bringing the slide back to battery 'easier'. The spring tension simply keeps the stop in the downward position until it is either pressed up manually or forced up by the empty mag. Any tightness in releasing the slide is caused from tension of the slide stop against the notch in the slide. This tension in turn, creates friction when pressing down on the stop.
The only thing that would make returning the slide to battery easier would be a weaker recoil spring to reduce slide pressure against the stop and that would be absurd.
The most you could expect to achieve by adding tension to the spring would be to force the end of the stop (where the pin hole is) downward slightly making pin alignment more difficult when reassembling or make the hole in the stop catch against the groove in the pin, making disassemble aggravating.
I'm willing to wager that increasing the tension on the spring will not make bringing the slide back to battery 'easier'. The spring tension simply keeps the stop in the downward position until it is either pressed up manually or forced up by the empty mag. Any tightness in releasing the slide is caused from tension of the slide stop against the notch in the slide. This tension in turn, creates friction when pressing down on the stop.
The only thing that would make returning the slide to battery easier would be a weaker recoil spring to reduce slide pressure against the stop and that would be absurd.
The most you could expect to achieve by adding tension to the spring would be to force the end of the stop (where the pin hole is) downward slightly making pin alignment more difficult when reassembling or make the hole in the stop catch against the groove in the pin, making disassemble aggravating.
Eye-peeled, with increase in spring tension downwards on stop, it should theoretically make it easier for the slide stop to disengage. I am searching for an automatic slide release, with a chambered round when dropping an empty mag and inserting a fresh one. Voyager4520, I might get one since I'm going to have it apart anyway. I am going to try to smooth the notch on the slide and maybe slightly round the edge of the slide stop where it engages the slide.
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