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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At the range right now. The FW trigger is not resetting all the time. If I rack the slide manually it will reset but most of the time it appears the firing pin is not striking the primer hard enough to fire the round. I can see light strike marks on the primer. In the comparison image the fired round is on the right.
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So, trigger not resetting, firing pin light striking (but not every round) and slide locking open on next to last round.
Some did fire so at least it can work.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
 

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First thing I would check is your connector bend angle adjustment.


If that doesn't get you where you want to be,with a armors plate, check cruciform/striker lug engagement and percentage of engagement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply.
I couldn't stay at the range any longer so at home now. When I manually rack the slide the trigger resets, everytime (go figure). But at the range, the trigger wouldn't reset after a round was fired. Only if I racked the slide and ejected the round in the chamber. And sometimes it didn't reset even then. But now it resets everytime but of course I'm not firing it.
If that doesn't get you where you want to be,with a armors plate, check cruciform/striker lug engagement and percentage of engagement.
That sentence kind of lost me. I looked up armors ('s) plate and it showed a thicker slide cover plate. When I put the slide together, to get the plate to fully close it was necessary for my wife to tap on the punch I was using to get the extractor plunger to go down far enough for the plate to close. I couldn't put enough pressure on it. Using a thicker plate would seem problematic. Just the extractor plunger. The firing pin went down fine.
Anyhoo, how does this help with the firing pin not hitting the primer hard enough (if THAT is the problem)? Which happened about 75% of the time.
 

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Hopefully this will explain the use of a Glock Armors plate better than I was able to get across,BTW one can be made if you have a spare back plate by cutting the lower portion off with a Dremel.

 
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Another point: someone stated 'absolutely no oil on the firing pin'. Why? I oiled mine thinking everything was new so oil everything for the break-in as I did with my LR-308.
Yeah you may put oil on everything but go ahead and do it with a Glock Firing Pin/Striker assembly and good luck, have fun.
By inducing oil to the F P/striker you are introducing hydraulic pressure between FP spring cups and channel liner, which will cause light strikes.
So it sounds like you by oiling the heck out of your Glock created your problems, for a more harmonious outcome clean all traces of oil on your FP/striker assembly and the F P channel liner and try again or not it's your choice, have fun.
 
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Spacer sleeve and spring cups are plastic and ride in channel liner.
Plastic on plastic = no oil

As to the plunger, plunger spring, and spring loaded bearing these should compress with a slight press of an armorers tool. Hammering/ tapping should not be needed.
Is the spring fully seated on the bearing and plunger, it may take some twisting and pushing to fully seat them. This assembly should come out as one and remain together.

Glocks require minimal lube and minimal cleaning. There are guides online as to where to lube.

Hope this helps too!
 

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Another point: someone stated 'absolutely no oil on the firing pin'. Why? I oiled mine thinking everything was new so oil everything for the break-in as I did with my LR-308.
Wait, you oiled the firing pin.

Ok, remove the firing pin, channel liner, spring, spring cups and remove all the oil from those parts and the channel itself.
 

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Ooookay, I flubbed up with the oil. Will tear down and remove it. In my Glock 21 manual it shows the oil points when you field strip the gun for cleaning. Are those the only places for oil?
Yes and absolutely none any where near your FP/striker but then now you know and know why.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Question: do I need to remove the channel liner? I have a tool to insert it but not to remove it. I hear I'll have to replace it once removed. They're certainly cheap enough but then add shipping (which is usually more than the item) plus USPS wait times.
Or, can I just remove the oil in the channel liner with cleaner and cotton swabs? Dawn and water? Simple Green and water?
 

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Question: do I need to remove the channel liner? I have a tool to insert it but not to remove it. I hear I'll have to replace it once removed. They're certainly cheap enough but then add shipping (which is usually more than the item) plus USPS wait times.
Or, can I just remove the oil in the channel liner with cleaner and cotton swabs? Dawn and water? Simple Green and water?
No you don't,a liner once removed to my mind is trash and should be replaced with a new OEM liner.
If it were me I would either hose it out with gun scrubber or 91% alcohol,which can usually be obtained at your local Wally World.
When I normally clean a Glock upper it is done with alcohol and reassembled bone dry, in all the years I've not had one rust using that method.
 
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