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Discussion in 'Glock Photos' started by kglack43, Jun 29, 2012.
My new old G20
Nice! I felt very accomplished the first time I took mine all the way down haha.
Same here its a little intimidating at first haha.
I'm use to pulling 1911a1's apart and thought they were pretty simple but NOTHING is as simple as a Glock to detail strip. Field Strip it, then 3 pins and the entire fire control system is out of the frame. That's one HUGE reason why I've really fallen in love with Glocks.
Awesome! I always thought it was fun to take things apart. Now the fun part begins, getting it all back together! LOL
I'm still too scared to do that.
In time you won't. If your anything like me you will end up taking it all the way apart just to see if you can lol
That's the cool thing about a Glock, it is so simple. If you can get it apart, you can put it back together!
Yep. But if you are not comfortable I would hold off until you have done some research on it and feel more comfortable
Lots of YouTube videos to help if you get stuck.
And when you get to the pins, what is the first pin to be dealt with?
And why is it important to push all the pins from left to right to get them out? Which pin can really create havoc if you don't?
You deal with the locking block pin first, and it is important to push from the left from the left because of the slide stop release and the two grooves in the locking block pin. Going from left to right means it doesn't get caught in the 2nd groove in the pin.
Yes the locking block pin is the first to take out and first to put back in. This is the pin that the slide stop lever spring rest against when installed correctly.
See how easy it can be to teach new folks how to look out after their guns?
But the locking block pin does not have grooves that would be the _____ pin.
Correct again. There are two grooves on the trigger pin used to capture the slide stop lever. Capturing the slide stop lever in this manner helps prevent the trigger pin from backing out accidently while firing the weapon. The trigger pin is the last pin placed back into the receiver/frame.
Aah, we won't place the trigger pin in just yet, it is the third and last pin to deal with.
So we have two pins left laying on the matt. To review the proper sequence of installing the pins:
the "First Pin" - Locking Block Pin behind the locking block. Yes the locking block pin is the first to take out and first to put back in. This is the pin that the slide stop lever spring rest against when installed correctly. This pin and the trigger pin are both made of metal. The locking block pin is also the same diameter as the trigger mechanism housing pin.
Now let's place the trigger mechanism housing pin in it's proper hole to secure the trigger mechanism housing in the rear section of the receiver. BTW, of the three pins, this is the only pin made of polymer. Hum, why is this pin made of polymer and not metal? It only comes in contact with polymer components (reciever & trigger mechanism housing).
So by installing the last pin, the trigger pin, the receiver is now complete and ready for the slide.
Oh gosh, we left out many other important parts I know. But we were just discussing the sequence of the three pins.
The whole operation/sequence is like this:
Install your magazine catch spring
Install the magazine catch
Install your slide lock spring
While holding down tension on the spring:
Install the slide lock ensuring the groove is facing up and to the rear
Attach the completed trigger housing mechanism(with ejector and connector) to the trigger bar (coil spring should resemble a "S") and place it (trigger assembly) in the receiver.
Install the locking block
Install the "First Pin" - locking block pin
Install the trigger housing mechanism pin (polymer)
Install the slide stop lever
Install the trigger pin.
Let me add that I seldom remove the slide lock lever or the magazine catch unless there is an issue with these components.
I rarely take my pistol down this far. I only do it when the pistol is really dirty and needs a good cleaning. I disassemble the slide more often though to ensure nothing is obstructing the striker. The channel for the striker gets dirty pretty quickly especially when using cheap range ammo.
Nice Old gun. I have owned some of and still have the gen 2 s.
Pin direction is very important. I downloaded the Glock armorer PDF and printed and bound it. Followed step by step without a problem.
I finally had the balls to take it completely apart and it was a lot easier than I thought. Also did the .25 trigger job.
Told ya it wouldn't be long