Extractor problem?

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by ryanmckenna88, Apr 30, 2012.

  1. ryanmckenna88

    ryanmckenna88 New Member

    It isn't a huge deal to me, but i often get hit with cases when i shoot. My gun is a gen 3. Any ideas what the cause is? Maybe too much oil? Should i just replace the extractor? The gun is from 2005 and has been shot a ton. Id say i get hit one or two times every clip... Isn't this the main reason people are angry about gen 4? Any tips to fix this problem? Thanks in advance! Ryan
  2. voyager4520

    voyager4520 New Member

    There's probably a good amount of residue and gunk built up around the extractor. Erratic ejection can result from the extractor not moving freely enough. I'd detail strip clean the slide. If you've never replaced the guide rod assembly/recoil spring assembly, I'd get a new factory one as well.

    I would not replace the extractor, there shouldn't be anything wrong with the one that's in the gun right now. Starting around 2008 Glock started using a new cheaper process to make their extractors, some believe it's MIM. Whatever it is, the quality isn't anywhere near as good as Glock's old extractors which were investment cast tool steel. If yours is from 2005, it has the old good quality extractor and the last thing I'd do is replace it with one of the newer inferior quality extractors.

    Here's some information on detail stripping if you need it, you'll need a small punch to detail strip the slide, ideally a 3/32 inch punch like the Glock Armorer's Tool which can be used to detail strip the entire gun short of a few parts. When I detail strip clean, I use Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner and q-tips. I then coat everything with Ballistol, then wipe everything absolutely dry to give the metal parts corrosion protection. Regular rubbing alcohol should work as a good cleaner as well.

    Be VERY careful removing the slide cover plate, keep your thumb over the area that the plate was covering. If you don't, the extractor depressor plunger spring and spring loaded bearing may come flying out.



    On the following page are some Glock Armorer's Manuals, just scroll down to the "G" section. I learned from the Update Manual and 2009 Manual. The 2009 Manual has a few pages missing, but that info can be found in the Update Manual as well.

    Make sure when you reassemble the frame, that the locking block pin is in the frame before you install the slide stop. This will ensure that the slide stop spring goes to its correct position, under the locking block pin, to give the slide stop spring its tension. If you install the locking block pin after installing the slide stop, you may damage the slide stop spring and the spring will not be in the correct position, resulting in the slide locking back with ammo still in the magazine.

    Here's an easy way to disassemble and reassemble the firing pin assembly:

    Magazine disassembly: [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpRquLIpolc[/ame]
    NOTE: Older followers attach to the spring by putting the end of the magazine spring coil through a plastic loop on the bottom of the follower(like the follower you see in the above video). The newest followers don't have that loop, they simply have two plastic ledges to hold the spring in place, so pull the spring out of the follower until it "pops" out of the follower and push the spring into the bottom of the follower until the spring "pops" into place in the bottom of the follower.

    Here's a video showing how to change the magazine catch: [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BI4wLV-_ic[/ame]
    I wouldn't use a screwdriver, I'd use something that's a lot less likely to gouge the plastic frame, like a curved dental pick. If you need to change the mag catch spring, you can use a pair of needlenose pliers to pull the spring out and push the new one in, I'd wrap the pliers lightly in masking tape as well.

    There isn't a very good video for removing the slide lock and slide lock spring. You can use the Glock tool(3/32 inch punch) to depress the spring while you remove the slide lock, but removing the spring ideally you need something thinner like a 1/16 inch punch or even thinner. To remove the slide lock you push the spring down closest to the slide lock, while holding the spring down you tilt the frame to the side and wiggle the slide lock around until it falls out. Then you put the thin punch under the slide lock spring from the rear of the frame, move the tip of the punch up to where the spring goes into the frame, and gently incrementally work the spring upward. Take note of which way the spring goes back in. When putting the slide lock back in, it should be positioned like this: http://oi55.tinypic.com/2zxw6s1.jpg
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2012

  3. Argyle64

    Argyle64 New Member

    Everything voyager said. Once you detail strip your slide, you can use non-chlorinated brake cleaner to blast away any carbon build up around the extractor. I use a small flathead screwdriver and/or small bronze bristle brush to clean away that carbon. Don't worry about your screwdriver scratching the slide, it can't happen.
  4. ryanmckenna88

    ryanmckenna88 New Member

    Man, thanks guys... Awesome