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See if your XD, 1911 or what ever flavor they prefer can detail strip their guns with a blind fold on. Most glock guys will be able to do it with a little practice....
Question. Never leave a coat of oil in the barrel of any of my guns. I after I clean I hope that's the right practice after u field strip and clean do u or any othe people do itpacknglock said:See if your XD, 1911 or what ever flavor they prefer can detail strip their guns with a blind fold on. Most glock guys will be able to do it with a little practice....
strazz said:Question. Never leave a coat of oil in the barrel of any of my guns. I after I clean I hope that's the right practice after u field strip and clean do u or any othe people do it[/QUOTE dang most sounded jacked up. I never leave oil is what it should say after I clean my guns
I used to oil only the lubrication points suggested in the instruction manual. Then I started to see a slight hint of a dull orange color in the grooves of the rifling at the muzzle end of one of my barrels. I was pretty sure it was rust, so I swabbed it with Hoppe's #9 and brushed with a phosphor bronze bore brush over and over until it was gone. When I first started detail stripping, I'd clean the slide internals out with Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner but I wouldn't put any oil in the slide internals. You don't want excess oil in the slide internals because it can slow the firing pin and cause light strikes, and it can collect excess residue and brass shavings which can cause the same thing among other problems. One day during a detail strip cleaning I shined a cool white LED flashlight into the firing pin channels of both of my slides and saw very light rust. I used bore solvent, a phosphor bronze bore brush for the firing pin channel with care not to push the brush too far and mar up the firing pin channel liner. There was some light rust in the slide cover plate groove as well, and some in the EDP channel. I used a Hoppe's phosphor bronze Utility Brush for the slide cover plate groove and around the outside of the firing pin channel, and for the EDP channel I trimmed a brass faucet screen and wrapped it around a q-tip with most of the cotton pulled off, I probably ran that through the EDP channel a few hundred times until solvent-soaked q-tips came out looking clean.Question. Never leave a coat of oil in the barrel of any of my guns. I after I clean I hope that's the right practice after u field strip and clean do u or any othe people do it
I used to oil only the lubrication points suggested in the instruction manual. Then I started to see a slight hint of a dull orange color in the grooves of the rifling at the muzzle end of one of my barrels. I was pretty sure it was rust, so I swabbed it with Hoppe's #9 and brushed with a phosphor bronze bore brush over and over until it was gone. When I first started detail stripping, I'd clean the slide internals out with Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner but I wouldn't put any oil in the slide internals. You don't want excess oil in the slide internals because it can slow the firing pin and cause light strikes, and it can collect excess residue and brass shavings which can cause the same thing among other problems. One day during a detail strip cleaning I shined a cool white LED flashlight into the firing pin channels of both of my slides and saw very light rust. I used bore solvent, a phosphor bronze bore brush for the firing pin channel with care not to push the brush too far and mar up the firing pin channel liner. There was some light rust in the slide cover plate groove as well, and some of the EDP channel. I used a Hoppe's phosphor bronze Utility Brush for the slide cover plate groove and around the outside of the firing pin channel, and for the EDP channel I trimmed a brass faucet screen and wrapped it around a q-tip with most of the cotton pulled off, I probably ran that through the EDP channel a few hundred times until solvent-soaked q-tips came out looking clean.
Now I coat every metal part with oil, let the oil soak into the metal for a few minutes, then wipe it as dry as possible. You have to be careful with the slide internals because you don't want any excess oil. When I'm drying the slide internal areas after applying oil, I pull some cotton slightly away from the tip of a q-tip and twist it until a forms a little point, then I put that point into the hole in the breech face for the tip of the firing pin and move it around in the hole to collect all of the excess oil. I do the same with the little hole next to the pickup rail on the bottom of the slide, and the hole in the extractor cut-out that the rounded "leg" of the extractor fits into. The slide internals, the bore of the barrel, and the internals of the magazines should not have any excess oil. If you apply oil for corrosion protection, those areas should be wiped relatively dry before you use the gun.
When both of my Glocks were new, they had light oil in the firing pin channels. The only place that they didn't have oil in the slide internals was in the EDP channels, the first time I cleaned both of them the q-tips came out of the EDP channels with an orange-red dust on them. It's not the copper colored factory lubricant, I believe it was rust.
I do the same thing with the q tips… not every cleaning but every detail.