detail strip

Discussion in 'Glock Forum' started by packnglock, May 8, 2012.

  1. packnglock

    packnglock One in the chamber

    See if your XD, 1911 or what ever flavor they prefer can detail strip their guns with a blind fold on. Most glock guys will be able to do it with a little practice....
  2. strazz

    strazz New Member

    Question. Never leave a coat of oil in the barrel of any of my guns. I after I clean I hope that's the right practice after u field strip and clean do u or any othe people do it

  3. strazz

    strazz New Member

  4. mcdiver

    mcdiver New Member

    I always leave a thin coat of miltec oil on every metal part. Since I've started doing that, my kimber 1911's do not have any problems.

    And I can strip all of my weapons blind folded, can only reassemble the glock that way.
  5. GBob

    GBob New Member

    I have enjoyed shooting my XDs for a little over three years. I have now transitioned to Glocks for two reasons. First, my wife can rack the slide of a Gen 3 19. Second, they are incredibly easy to detail strip and replace parts. My XDs point more easily for me and I like the trigger slightly better than the Glocks. That being said, I am regretfully steering away from XDs because they quite complicated to detail strip and having to send them to Illinois for repairs was putting me off.

    I am keeping my two last XDs because of all the money I invested ($2700.00). I sold my other three at a great loss even though they were all stock.

    Glock require very little lubrication. Over and beyond what is recommended, I put a little Slide Glyde on the outside of the barrel and a little on the inside of the slide were it comes in contact with the barrel. And I do mean very little.
  6. voyager4520

    voyager4520 New Member

    I used to oil only the lubrication points suggested in the instruction manual. Then I started to see a slight hint of a dull orange color in the grooves of the rifling at the muzzle end of one of my barrels. I was pretty sure it was rust, so I swabbed it with Hoppe's #9 and brushed with a phosphor bronze bore brush over and over until it was gone. When I first started detail stripping, I'd clean the slide internals out with Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner but I wouldn't put any oil in the slide internals. You don't want excess oil in the slide internals because it can slow the firing pin and cause light strikes, and it can collect excess residue and brass shavings which can cause the same thing among other problems. One day during a detail strip cleaning I shined a cool white LED flashlight into the firing pin channels of both of my slides and saw very light rust. I used bore solvent, a phosphor bronze bore brush for the firing pin channel with care not to push the brush too far and mar up the firing pin channel liner. There was some light rust in the slide cover plate groove as well, and some in the EDP channel. I used a Hoppe's phosphor bronze Utility Brush for the slide cover plate groove and around the outside of the firing pin channel, and for the EDP channel I trimmed a brass faucet screen and wrapped it around a q-tip with most of the cotton pulled off, I probably ran that through the EDP channel a few hundred times until solvent-soaked q-tips came out looking clean.

    Now I coat every metal part with oil, let the oil soak into the metal for a few minutes, then wipe it as dry as possible, and put small drops of oil on the lubrication points suggested in the instruction manual. You have to be careful with the slide internals because you don't want any excess oil. When I'm drying the slide internal areas after applying oil, I pull some cotton slightly away from the tip of a q-tip and twist it until a forms a little point, then I put that point into the hole in the breech face for the tip of the firing pin and move it around in the hole to collect all of the excess oil. I do the same with the little hole next to the pickup rail on the bottom of the slide, and the hole in the extractor cut-out that the rounded "leg" of the extractor fits into. The slide internals, the bore of the barrel, and the internals of the magazines should not have any excess oil. If you apply oil for corrosion protection, those areas should be wiped relatively dry before you use the gun.

    Some oils protect against corrosion much better than others. Early on I used Hoppe's Oil. My G23 is an older one, around 2004 make, and it has the older bare steel frame rails. One of the frame rails developed a very light spot of surface rust while it was literally dripping in Hoppe's Oil. After cleaning the rust away from all parts of my Glocks, I've been using Ballistol and I haven't seen even the slightest hint of rust since.

    When both of my Glocks were new, they had light oil in the firing pin channels. The only place that they didn't have oil in the slide internals was in the EDP channels, the first time I cleaned both of them the q-tips came out of the EDP channels with an orange-red dust on them. It's not the copper colored factory lubricant, I believe it was rust.
    Last edited: May 14, 2012

    BLCKWLF GrassHopper

    I do the same thing with the q tips… not every cleaning but every detail.
  8. GBob

    GBob New Member


    The ability to do this all oneself is exactly why I admire and own Glocks.