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Copper grease for connector?

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G

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been using Break Free CLP everywhere but starting using the same copper anti seize grease new Glocks have on the connector.

Is this a bad idea? I figure since this is a newish gun that the mild abrasiveness of the copper grease will help smooth out the trigger pull slightly. Or should I just Break Free CLP the connector and call it a day?

Thanks
 
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#2 ·
Lot of opinions out there. I've seen "no lube below the rails". Think my Glock bench mat shows one drop oil just inboard of the rear rail.
I generally over lube my guns, but have been running my Glocks and P80's dryer as time goes by, still using a drop of oil or residual Ballistol. Grease and oil hold dirt.
 
GlockGuide

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#5 ·
It makes for a horrible feel to the trigger. The connector is the only spot on the gun where I wipe the anti seize off a new Glock in exchange for a drop of oil.

BTW - Glock materials say to not replace the anti-seize after it wears off. Also the Loctite is not the actual product Glock uses. I don’t know that the difference matters but whatever Glock uses actually has a higher heat rating. I only take that to indicate a different product as I doubt anyone would actually exceed the Loctite rating.
 
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rbbeers

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#6 ·
rbbeers

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#7 · (Edited)
G19OD said:
... the mild abrasiveness of the copper grease will help smooth out the trigger pull slightly.
Click to expand...
Unless the formulas of the products I researched in 2017 have changed, typical commercial copper and copper-nickel anti-seize greases (Permatex, Loctite, Bostik, et cetera) contain no abrasives.

For example...

"LOCTITE LB 8008 C5-A is an exclusive anti-seize lubricant in a brush top form with copper and graphite suspended in high quality grease."

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/anti-seize-lubricants/loctite_lb_8008_c5-a.html​

The grease looks and feels 'gritty' due to the extremely small metal particles (of copper, nickel, et cetera) contained in the grease, which, in application, are 'smashed and flattened' to create a very thin 'anti-seize' layer between the surfaces of the individual metal parts, which, coupled with the graphite (a 'dry' high-temperature lubricant) prevents 'sticking'.

Best regards,

Bob :)
 
buddy157

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#8 ·
G19OD said:
I've been using Break Free CLP everywhere but starting using the same copper anti seize grease new Glocks have on the connector.

Is this a bad idea? I figure since this is a newish gun that the mild abrasiveness of the copper grease will help smooth out the trigger pull slightly. Or should I just Break Free CLP the connector and call it a day?

Thanks
Click to expand...
only from my years when young, as an auto-mechanic, i know that all grease(s) attract dirt.'

then you get what basically amounts to "sand paper", so talk about smoothing things out!!

i am still new to this sport, since about late January.

but i have taken apart my glock, installed that double diamond trigger connector, and i get a sweet easier trigger pull. i also only use a drop, of Hoppe's oil at that connector.

i also get all my Glock parts for "the glock store", but i am sure that other parts makers for the glock brand are good.

one more thing, i think it's best to search (maybe Amazon) for the small oiling bottle, that has the needle applicator, really helps out putting the oil exactly where you want it.
 
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Pat Harmon

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#10 ·
I use a needle applicator and a product called zero friction on the rail. I spray Ballistol on the barrel,spring and slide before I wipe the slide assembly down,then a small amount of the zero friction in the designated spots they suggest. Since I shoot my model 22 the most,I have seen improvements in the gun each time out. I am sure there are multitudes of opinions of which products to use as well as others that don't clean their guns as often. I myself,take my guns apart after each shooting and wipe them down and clean them. I may be what is considered an over cleaner though,but I enjoy it so it's relaxing to me.I have even cleaned and lubed friends guns for them.
 
LostinTexas

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#14 ·
hammer22 said:
Use whatever you want . I put the C5A on the connector whenever I re-assemble mine and it's not an issue (and yes, that is what Glock uses). Ask ten different people, you'll get ten different answers.

View attachment 214489
Click to expand...
I was going to post this picture. Use oil. Glock doesn't say a thing about grease or any other lubricant for maintaining the pistol. 4 -6 drops is all you need, depending on the size of the dropper.
When they had it would you run break in oil in the engine for life?
Oh and be VERY careful if you follow along on that 25 cent trigger job. It can smooth a trigger, but far too many have fixed it right into unreliability with that and a lot of other mods. Want to smooth a Glock trigger? Take a thousand rounds, a fist full of targets and mags to the range. Have a ball. At the end of that thousand, the trigger will be smooth, and the loose nut will have the feel of it.
Cheers
 
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hammer22

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#15 ·
LostinTexas said:
I was going to post this picture. Use oil. Glock doesn't say a thing about grease or any other lubricant for maintaining the pistol. 4 -6 drops is all you need, depending on the size of the dropper.
When they had it would you run break in oil in the engine for life?
Oh and be VERY careful if you follow along on that 25 cent trigger job. It can smooth a trigger, but far too many have fixed it right into unreliability with that and a lot of other mods. Want to smooth a Glock trigger? Take a thousand rounds, a fist full of targets and mags to the range. Have a ball. At the end of that thousand, the trigger will be smooth, and the loose nut will have the feel of it.
Cheers
Click to expand...
When at the Glock Armorer class earlier this year, I asked a 30-year employee about his $0.02 on using the C5A on the connector. My comment about "use whatever you want" echoed his opinion. Hell, you can run them dry with no issues either if it came down to it. The copper grease stays put, whereas oil will run off, and I use the grease there on all mine with zero issues.

As for "break-in" oil, that is hardly an issue today since modern engines come off the assembly line with normal oil that usually gets run easily for 5,000 miles or more. I've also built many engines over a few decades and I always use regular oil to break them in, which is done by the way they are operated and by chosing a specific interval before draining the oil. If people want to buy an oil that says it is specific for breaking them in, that is their choice. Much like copper grease on a Glock connector, either will work. And as far as polishing the connector and such: I never bother with it. Shooting them a lot does the trick.
 
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RIP

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GlockGuide

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