Glock Firearms banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
552 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been a reloader a long time, but mainly rifle and .357/.38. I have lately purchased some bullets and powders to try loading some 10mm and .40 caliber. I have several types of spent shells and have been inspecting them(all once fired) and was looking at some of the off brand types. I have Federal, Winchester as well as other ones. I don't feel comfortable reloading the silver ones, so I wont mess with them. Are there some casings brands I should just pass on? I am using a set of RCBS Carbide crimping dies in my Rockchucker press. I am going to start on the low side and find a comfortable good shooting load. My guns that I am using are all Glocks Model 22.23 and model 20.Been doing some reading lately and getting ideas as to others loads and taking notes.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,430 Posts
First of all, they are not shells, they are cases. Silver ones are nickel plated, and the best of all. FC, WW, RP, Starline, Speer, Blazer, almost any US brand is good to go. Can't answer a load question without knowing what weight bullets and construction (FMJ, copper plated, cast, moly coated, powder coated or HiTek coated). also what powder? Generally speaking the 10mm and the 40S&W want a higher volume lower density slower burning powder, like N340, BE-86, HS-6, AA #7, AA #5. There are a million different loads, but stay away from low volume, high density, fast burn powders like TG or Clays.

There are even loading forums

https://10mm-firearms.com/reloading-10mm-ammo/10mm-load-data-collection/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,085 Posts
Nickel plated brass is good to go. For 40 S&W my go to powder is VV N320. Very clean and soft shooting powder. The down side is cost. It is not a cheap powder. You can usually use Google Images to search various head stamps. I stick to U.S. manufacturers with a few exceptions for European brands. I stay away from the russian, chinese, south american, etc.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,139 Posts
The N320 powder is what I currently have. Got it through my LGS. I also have 180 gr JHP bullets. I just am reading about load specs now with the bullets/powder I have..
Pat,
give the BLUE DOT a look for 10mm loads too. I`ve loaded some real good 10mm stuff with BD.

As for brass, most of the USA stuff is decent. I like Starline myself, especially for 10mm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
965 Posts
The N320 powder is what I currently have. Got it through my LGS. I also have 180 gr JHP bullets. I just am reading about load specs now with the bullets/powder I have..
2 other powders much like N 320 which can be expensive and difficult at times to source are Winchester WST and my newest replacement Alliant Sport Pistol.

IMO Sport pistol is the closest and as clean burning/low flash as N 320,it's only been out since 2018 but is my new favorite.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jhg

·
Registered
Joined
·
965 Posts
First of all, they are not shells, they are cases. Silver ones are nickel plated, and the best of all. FC, WW, RP, Starline, Speer, Blazer, almost any US brand is good to go. Can't answer a load question without knowing what weight bullets and construction (FMJ, copper plated, cast, moly coated, powder coated or HiTek coated). also what powder? Generally speaking the 10mm and the 40S&W want a higher volume lower density slower burning powder, like N340, BE-86, HS-6, AA #7, AA #5. There are a million different loads, but stay away from low volume, high density, fast burn powders like TG or Clays.

There are even loading forums

https://10mm-firearms.com/reloading-10mm-ammo/10mm-load-data-collection/
"also what powder? Generally speaking the 10mm and the 40S&W want a higher volume lower density slower burning powder, like N340, BE-86, HS-6, AA #7, AA #5. There are a million different loads, but stay away from low volume, high density, fast burn powders like TG or Clays."

Spot on powder choice recommendations
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
I have .40S&W and 10mm dies for both a Rock Chucker Supreme and Dillon 650XL. I load for a G27.4 40S&W and a G40.4 10mm.
Since these cases are straight wall, and relatively short, there is no realistic concern about case strength or case volume from head stamp to head stamp.
I agree with avoiding light, quick burn powder loads for these calibers. Not that there is danger of a Kaboom if you adhere to book loads, but IMHO the accuracy just isn't there.
Silver cases can be either Nickle coated brass or steel. The Nickle coated brass I save for my EDC and Bear loads since they don't corrode and feed smoothly. The steel cases I toss in the recycle bin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
FWIW, my experience with Blue Dot is that it excels up to 180 gr bullets.
Heavier bullets seem to like AA#9 for long barrels and AA#7 or PowerPistol for 5" or shorter barrels. YMMV.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
552 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I agree but around here powder is extremely tough to gather up. I can use the Blue Dot in several loads of several calibers. I have 2 1 lb containers of Unique and the same in 2400 I use the 2400 in my 44 Magnum,which I have been loading up. I am grateful for the 1200 Large primers I have now..I will work on the .44 Magnum first then go to smaller calibers of guns I have.
 

·
Grumpy Old Man
Joined
·
4,163 Posts
I don't know whether it's still on the market, but stay away from Norma Brass! It used to be a lot thicker than most brass and you could get into all sorts of strife. Because of the lessen powder capacity
 
  • Like
Reactions: SJ 40 and PaPow

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,139 Posts
I don't know whether it's still on the market, but stay away from Norma Brass! It used to be a lot thicker than most brass and you could get into all sorts of strife. Because of the lessen powder capacity
I quit using Norma brass a long time ago. It use to be top notch stuff 30yrs ago, not so much today fir sure!
I also steer clear of remington brass. Its to thin. Any bullet setback issues i`ve had were always with remington brass.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top