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Discussion Starter · #161 ·
Patch the chamber & barrel rifling until its clean and dry of any oils before you shoot it.
Shoot 20 rounds to foul the barrel, then never clean the barrel rifling again until the groups start to open up.
Always clean everything within the gun before & after shooting, but NEVER touch that barrel rifling until the groups start going south.

That has worked for me for over well over 40yrs. YMMV
So not even running clp through the barrel after? I was always brought up using hoppes with a few patches, let sit, brass brush through a few times, dry patch, wet patch with oil, then another dry patch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
From what ive read ive seen shoot a shot then run a patch through the bore with copper solvent, then dry patch and then repeat after each shot until the copper fouling has all but went away. After that just run it. Seems like the throat is the crucial area that needs burnished or broken in not the actual rifling
 

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From what ive read ive seen shoot a shot then run a patch through the bore with copper solvent, then dry patch and then repeat after each shot until the copper fouling has all but went away. After that just run it. Seems like the throat is the crucial area that needs burnished or broken in not the actual rifling
You can do it what ever way you feel is right, for you. I`m only telling you what works, for me. Hence >>> "YMMV"
Do you really believe that oil or solvent in your barrel stays in there after the first round? No, it does not.
So why leave the oil in there in the first place. Unless you`re looking to build up carbon.

The only time i put oil in the barrel is to protect it from rust while its sitting in my gun safe.
When i get ready to bench it, the oil & solvents get cleaned out before i shoot it.
Leaving oil in the barrel will effect your cold bore shot too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
You can do it what ever way you feel is right, for you. I`m only telling you what works, for me. Hence >>> "YMMV"
Do you really believe that oil or solvent in your barrel stays in there after the first round? No, it does not.
So why leave the oil in there in the first place. Unless you`re looking to build up carbon.

The only time i put oil in the barrel is to protect it from rust while its sitting in my gun safe.
When i get ready to bench it, the oil & solvents get cleaned out before i shoot it.
Leaving oil in the barrel will effect your cold bore shot too.
that makes a lot of sense, if its wet or has a film of oil it will make the carbon stick
 

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Discussion Starter · #165 · (Edited)
Got some goodies today!

the scope came in, feels very nice, nice balance, everything is tight and smooth, i would like the top turret to be a tad clickier but its definitely audible enough, and hey i had to find one negative about it right lol. The glass is crystal clear and this thing gathers light great, i have looked through it in my back yard from 5-24x on a cloudy day and the image is pretty bright. We will see how it does on a full length range. Also got the free throw lever with it and the billet level. The eye box is pretty tight on 24x but we will see how it is once its mounted

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Product Camera accessory Font Material property Publication
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 · (Edited)
Got the brass goat brass catcher today as well, it does fit the Aero M4E1 magwell but doesnt lay 100% flush against it. Because the magwell has tapered edges where the back lip rests it pushed the back lip of the brass goat up slightly and leaves about 1/16” gap between it and the magwell, of course me being ocd i had to fix that lol. I bought it with the mini hopper that will hold about four or five 6 arc rounds but left it out in the pics, my plan is to leave the hopper out and either have a container or maybe just a rag where the empty shells fall into

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Didnt take much to get it to fit perfectly, had to sand the rear lip to match the same angle as the lower.

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Discussion Starter · #171 ·
Got the seekins mxm mount in today, i have the scope mocked up just to see where the eye relief needs to be and noticed the gap on the ring caps arent the same front and rear. I have them on there now just finger tight, but the gap on the rings is less in the front than in the back. Will this not matter as long as the gap is even side to side? The caps are the same height but no matter the position of the caps the one cap has a larger gap than the other. In other words the rear cap in the pics has the same larger gap whether its on the front ring or rear ring. If i swap the front and rear caps the gaps move with that particular cap

Left side

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right side

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Got the seekins mxm mount in today, i have the scope mocked up just to see where the eye relief needs to be and noticed the gap on the ring caps arent the same front and rear. I have them on there now just finger tight, but the gap on the rings is less in the front than in the back. Will this not matter as long as the gap is even side to side? The caps are the same height but no matter the position of the caps the one cap has a larger gap than the other. In other words the rear cap in the pics has the same larger gap whether its on the front ring or rear ring. If i swap the front and rear caps the gaps move with that particular cap

Left side

View attachment 272054

right side

View attachment 272055
Don`t mess with the caps. Leave them where they were when the unit arrived. Changing them around from where they originally started, can possibly damage your scope tube when you torque it down to its final torque spec. Most of these type scope mounts are bored to match where they are originally. That gap is not going to hurt anything at all. Bolt the scope on and go. If you don`t think about it, or go OCD over it, it won`t bother you. Some overthink this gap to much. Its nothing to worry about. Mount them the best you can, and let it go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #173 · (Edited)
Ok got the scope mounted, got the eye relief set where i think its gonna be, torqued the scope mount, leveled the scope, reticle and upper receiver together. Everything is level. Torqued the scope rings. Installed the scope level. Just went to do a quick bore sight and i had to bring the windage over about 3 mils to center the reticle left to right. Does this sound excessive? Variance in the upper receiver? I guess the scope windage adjustment could have been not centered from the factory? Either way i set the windage turret to zero
 

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Discussion Starter · #174 · (Edited)
Got it bore sighted pretty close, should get me close at the range. i looked up a few bore to scope offset calculators and with 2.6” scope height and 100 yard zero came up with 2.25” from laser to crosshairs at 8 yards away. With the 20 moa rail i had to bring the reticle up about 4 mil, i set the zero stop at .5 mil under zero just to give me some adjustment up if needed, i ended up with about 19 mils of elevation adjustment to bring the reticle down. Just waiting on the scope caps. I did weigh it and unloaded it weighs right at 11-1/2 lbs. im hoping to make it to the range sometime during the week

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Also had a bass pro gift card for $75 after returning that leupold scope mount that i used my $75 in points on. Ordered these from bass pro and they arrived today too

Fat wrench torque wrench.

View attachment 271897

6mm/6.5mm cleaning kit for when i do my first shots and season the barrel

View attachment 271896
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I personally prefer the spear tipped type of jag compared with the eyelet type. The Wheeler torque wrenches are great! Love mine
 

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Good golly this is a long read! On Vortex being made in China, I thought they always were? Nearly everything in optics is made in China. Unless you really go big bucks.

6mm ARC is a round that may stick around for a very long time. I'll probably never go there! I sure thought about it when Kotaboy32 did his series on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
Good golly this is a long read! On Vortex being made in China, I thought they always were? Nearly everything in optics is made in China. Unless you really go big bucks.

6mm ARC is a round that may stick around for a very long time. I'll probably never go there! I sure thought about it when Kotaboy32 did his series on them.
i like it because its different, i always liked the thought of a long range ar and about a year after the 6arc came out i was intrigued, sure there are other variants out there but in the ar15 platform i think this is the best one, i was originally looking at the 6.5 grendel but its been around so long it seems outdated
 

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Good golly this is a long read! On Vortex being made in China, I thought they always were? Nearly everything in optics is made in China. Unless you really go big bucks.

6mm ARC is a round that may stick around for a very long time. I'll probably never go there! I sure thought about it when Kotaboy32 did his series on them.
LOL, i think 340 likes seeing us drool, he keeps teasing us! :LOL:
Yepppp, you nailed it! Everything is pretty much chinese, but i have to admit, they have stepped it up on the quality coming from there in alot of the scope brands as fof lately. I picked up a Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56 the other day, and the glass was actually very good! The reticle is what i was looking for, and nobody else had anything i liked, so i brought the Strike Eagle home. I got 20% off from it because it was the only one they had left. It was their display model, so they cut me a good break on the price. It was in perfect condition. Normally i would pass on display models, but nobody else in my area had any in stock, so i took the chance. I`ve got a Ruger heavy barreled rimfire that it lives on now, and it has worked flawlessly, so far. I can`t afford those USA made scopes anymore. Retirement has dampened the play funds, alot.
 

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My AR10 sports Primary Arms blemished .308, 5.56, 5.45 of unknown specs as it isn't marked. I would have to find the box. I really didn't want a stainless barrel. I got tired of waiting on PSA to get a nitride upper in stock.

On barrel wear? After cleaning I would swab the barrel with Motorkote. Let it sit over night, then wipe it with your dry patch. Allegedly it may take away some velocity, yet might increase the accuracy.

Funny thing is I don't use this stuff in my engines. Just guns! 🤪
 
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