If you have a Glock, you know for a fact that you have one of the plainest gun grips in the world and there is not a lot you could do to change that with a set of aftermarket grips as on other pistols. One very common DIY trick for this is stippling. This act of burning holes in things that you love may (or may not) be the answer you are looking for.
What is stippling?
Basically put, this act of modification is accomplished by pushing something very hot and very hard (think steel) into your medium. While in our case it\'s done to plastic (err, we mean high impact polymer), it can also be done to wood or similar items. Its an outgrowth of the old-school scroll worker\'s inlay known as pyrography used to checker stocks and such. The \'stipple\' that is left behind is the opposite of a \'nipple\' in the respect that sinks in rather than pokes out. The best way to perform this act on a Glock in question is with a soldering iron. Most serious stipplers use small, ultra-fine point battery-powered models to keep from having a cord get in the way. If you get too aggressive with it, you can always sand it back down as smooth as you like.
Cory of Cory and Erika fame goes over stippling on his G34 frame for practical/tactical use, including hands-on burning tips.
Why do it?
Stippling roughs up the surface of the Glock\'s polymer frame much more than is done at the factory. This practice started with the early 1st and 2nd Gen guns and is thought to have influenced Glock to bring out the RTF2 series of 3rd Gen Glocks a few years ago. However, it can still be done to Gen 3 and even Gen 4 guns to add a rough texture to the frame in various areas that are not found with it (such as the trigger guard and above the rail areas). This extra roughage can help maintain a steady grip on the gun in wet, muddy, or bloody conditions. Plus, a nice stippling job can really customize the look of your gun.
Why not do it?
This is not temporary. It\'s a permanent modification that you can\'t just peel off or unscrew. Since the frame is registered and serial numbered as a controlled item, if you destroy it, you literally destroy the gun itself. Therefore, your stipple job can be modified, sanded smoother, or reburned deeper or flatter, but can never be un-done. If you go too deep, you risk real damage and frame weakening to your firearm. Also, your custom 7000-point stipple may mean nothing to a potential buyer down the road. In fact, it may turn them away.
If you chose to stipple, the most important thing to do is take your time and remember that usually less is more. The last thing you want is a rushed or overworked stippled job because it will definitely show. Understand that you are gambling with the resale value of your Glock from the first burn onward, so be methodical and careful with what you do. If you are 110% sure you can pull it off while sitting on the couch watching Sons of Guns, knock yourself out, if not, give yourself a better fighting chance by removing outside stimuli and setting up at the man cave isolation chamber. Be smooth, be methodical, and act like a machine. It\'s best to practice on similar polymer (think about the mag loader that comes free in your Glock box that you have never used).
A nice stippling job can add to your gun and make more usable in a tactical situation, a horrible one will leave you a shattered specter of the man you once were. Roll the dice and weigh your options.
Moreover, watch out, those soldering irons can get hot, brother.