Slide won't lock to the rear after last round

Discussion in 'Glock Forum' started by RROCSO, Oct 3, 2012.

  1. chilly613

    chilly613 New Member

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    Take a dremel and cut off part of the tab... Helped my friend and if you want to replace it they're cheap.
     
  2. RROCSO

    RROCSO Member

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    Interesting. I am the second owner of this G17. The officer I bought it from used it while in the accademy. I broke down the gun for cleaning this evening and found gouges inside the slide, located on the rail cuts near the middle of the breach opening. The gouges, about ¼ inch long, are on both sides of the slide rail cuts and are positioned just above the two slide lock buttons on the receiver. I own a G22C and G23. They both have slight surface type wear marks in the same locations, but nothing like the ones on the G17, which are gouges.

    I hope this does not require a new rail. I checked pricing on the web and a fully built rail is almost what I can buy a new G17 for with Blue Label pricing.

    Here are a few pictures.
     

    Attached Files:


  3. chuckds

    chuckds Certified Glock Armorer

    Could it be from the locking block?
     
  4. Speed3

    Speed3 New Member

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    I'm going to buy an extended slide lock lever. If the extended lever still touches my thumb, thus preventing the last shot from locking the slide back, I'll try cutting off the tab. That's sounds like it should work. Thanks.
     
  5. FarazTE

    FarazTE New Member

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    How much did u pay for that gun dude? And have u shot it at all? I'd be mad as hell
     
  6. G-23

    G-23 Premium Member

    Just normal peening from the locking block. Nothing to worry 'bout.
     
  7. RROCSO

    RROCSO Member

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    The price was well below market. It has worked flawlessly for the years I've owned it, so I'm not mad about it. Like anything mechanical, things break.

    Good to know! Thanks. I am going to change out the recoil spring assembly though with a stainless or tungsten one.
     
  8. G-23

    G-23 Premium Member

    For better than half price I think you can make the swap with OEM parts.
    Why, because it is recommended you swap the recoil spring assy every 3 - 5000 rounds.
     
  9. RROCSO

    RROCSO Member

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    Agreed, the cost of an OEM recoil spring assembly is much cheaper. I've always gone that route, but want to try a stainless or tungsten...at least once. :D

    Thanks for the tip on the replacement cycle. Is there a periodic maintenance document that shows the recommended replacement of internal parts in a Glock?
     
  10. G-23

    G-23 Premium Member

    Not that I am aware. The pistol will run even if several parts break as long as there is ammo in the chamber to fire.

    The recoil spring is the key to keeping your firearm in pretty much top conditionalong with periodic cleaning. It helps to prevent all the other components from taking a beating.

    I have put over 30,000+ rounds thru my carry (purchased after being refurbished) and pretty much replaced everything but the slide. GLOCK replaced all the internals in the slide when the barrel lug gave out.

    But do keep a few things on hand, just in case:
    Slide Lock
    Slide Lock Spring
    Locking Block
    Trigger pin
    Trigger Spring
    Set of Spring Cups
    Firing Pin Safety Spring
    Extractor

    Hope that helps
     
  11. RROCSO

    RROCSO Member

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    Thank you for taking the time to help out!! I really appreciate it.
     
  12. adman

    adman New Member

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    The top four reasons, in my experience:

    --Weak 115 gr. 9mm ammo (alternatively, a recoil spring that is one size too strong). If you use light, range-quality ammo, I recommend a lighter recoil spring. This is a two-way street with physics, no getting around that.
    --Thumb on lever
    --Tired mag spring
    --Tired lever spring
     
  13. SixG17s

    SixG17s Active Member

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    OP, where these 10 or 17 round magazines? The tens seem to come with their own set of issues, as it happened on all the mags, and the last round not slide locking is one of them. Try running it with only 9. If it was a 17, then I would look towards a shifting grip and thumb riding. The only way to know if you had "weak" ammo is to chrono it, but if the range stuff cycled the gun, it should have held the slide back on empty. I know Glock recommends changing out the recoil spring assembly every 3-5K, but I have a 2 pin G17 that has over 200,000 rounds thru it and have only changed the recoil spring maybe 5 or 6 times. The problem becomes known by failure to feed. There is also the so called spring test, where you crank an empty gun, pull the trigger, hold the trigger in, point the gun up, and pull the slide out of battery by about 1/8" and see if it snaps back into place. If it crawls back, it's time to change. This will not work on 15lb and less springs.